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Injury Prevention

CONFIRMED: Voodoo Flossing Helps Climbing Injuries

September 7, 2015 by Jason Clements

It is confirmed:  Voodoo flossing helps climbing injuries.

My article “Why All Climbers Should Experiment With Voodoo Flossing” is being discussed in the UK Bouldering Forum.  It was quickly obvious that many, if not all of the climbers were experiencing positive results with Voodoo Flossing.  Most stated that finger injuries were improving.  Others stated that elbow and shoulder injuries were also helped.

“…good feeling results.”

“…went from limited range of motion to full range of motion with no pain.”

“…the niggling feeling near my A2 is pretty much gone.”

“…results are remarkable.”

And this one is my favorite comments because the writer first states on August 13th:

“I did it on the hour all day yesterday and my tweaky finger just feels more agitated.”

[Read more…] about CONFIRMED: Voodoo Flossing Helps Climbing Injuries

Filed Under: Injury Prevention, Voodoo Floss Tagged With: bouldering, Climbing, finger injuries, Voodoo Flossing

Climbing Injuries Solved: Book Review

August 8, 2015 by Jason Clements

Climbing Injuries Solved BookIs the book Climbing Injuries Solved by Dr. Lisa Erikson the book that is going to help you finally become healthy, finally get over that injury, finally help you feel strong?  Well, let’s just see what we see.

The first thing I really like about the book is that Dr. Erikson uses my phrase:

Don’t Be An Idiot

She uses that phrase inside the context of, “If what you have been doing to heal yourself has not been working well enough to achieve the above needs, it’s time to reinvent your strategy and find the areas in which your self-care has failed.”

The “needs” she refers to as being the “gold standard that we are all working toward” are:

  • Muscles should be smooth with no knots or sore spots
  • No pain when pressing on any tendon
  • No pain on or between joints
  • Full flexibility of fingers, wrists, elbows, and shoulders without fear of injury

The Super Quick Summary

There is a tear-off bookmark attached to the back cover.  It has a 5 point summary.  Is recovery from an injury as simple as taking action on these 5 points? [Read more…] about Climbing Injuries Solved: Book Review

Filed Under: Injury Prevention Tagged With: Climbing Injuries, Climbing Injuries Solved, Dr. Lisa Erikson, finger injuries

My Back Is Killing Me: Which Foam Roller Is Right For My Back Pain

July 28, 2015 by Jason Clements

Muscles of the BackUnfortunately,  I am an expert in overcoming back pain.

I am hopeful that some of my experiences can benefit you, especially if you are suffering from chronic aches and pains.  Or maybe you’ll find that using some of these tools may increase your athletic performance.

As usual, I am not a doctor.  See your doctor for all of your medical needs.  This is an article about what I experience with foam rollers and other health maintenance tools.


My Story Of My Back Pains

I’ve been seeing a chiropractor, on and off, for about 25 years.  Many years ago, I had a serious biking accident.  I fell over the handlebars, landing on my head.  I ripped part of my sternocleidomastoid away from my skull.  X-rays were negative for fractures.  For a few days the only way I could be comfortable was on my knees in front of my recliner, with the foot rest on my belly and my face in the seat of the chair.  I did go to a chiropractor who seemed spooked to adjust me.  I saw him a couple of times and I was slowly getting better.  A few months later, I ended up having these weird headaches that started at the base of my skull and moved up over the top of my head to my forehead.  I finally went to a different chiropractor, and after one adjustment, I was significantly better.  I continued seeing this new chiropractor for wellness care.  And although I still have a hard little lump of scar tissue, I have full range of motion and consider myself 100% recovered from that injury.

Now, skip ahead a number of years, and I was T-boned by some moron driver doing a 360 out of a parking lot.  Stupid driver and stupid maneuver.   This was not a serious accident.  However, I got the typically massive soreness in my neck within about 12 hours, typical of whiplash.  Filed an insurance claim – saw the newer chiropractor – saw a massage therapist, too.  In total, I had about 6 weeks of treatments.

Even though I was in pain for a good number of weeks after that car accident, I can say that after all those treatments, I came away the healthiest and strongest (my back and neck) I had felt in years.

Perform Basic Maintenance On Yourself With A Foam Roller

Again, I am going to mention Becoming A Supple Leopard by Dr. Kelly Starrett.  The premise of his book is that all human beings should be able to perform basic maintenance on themselves.  I believe that.  And to help maintain my back’s health, I have employed a number of devices. [Read more…] about My Back Is Killing Me: Which Foam Roller Is Right For My Back Pain

Filed Under: Gear, Injury Prevention Tagged With: back pain, foam roller, Lacrosse, mobbing, neck pain, Supple Leopard, The Orb, Theracane

Why All Climbers Should Experiment With Voodoo Flossing

July 27, 2015 by Jason Clements

Quickly heal an injured finger
Could I quickly heal this injured finger?

**Updated Notes With Real Results from Climbers Experimenting with Voodoo Flossing.  Confirmed: Voodoo Flossing Helps Climbing Injuries


My first experience with Voodoo Flossing made me shake my head and say to myself, “Naw, that can’t be real.”

What appeared to be a very bad finger injury was 100% better in less than 48 hours.  I Voodoo Flossed my finger about 2 dozen times and the pain was gone, the swelling was gone.  My finger was nearly 100% recovered.    [That is NOT hyperbole.]

I was unloading my climbing gear.  As I lifted the bouldering pad off of the cargo holder, the middle finger of my right hand caught on a bungee cord. My finger bent sideways. Youch!  That sucked; and I knew it was bad.

My middle finger was already a little bit tweaked before this trip; but I still climbed my hardest.  And, during the trip, I only experienced a little bit of discomfort if I gave my finger a bit of lateral movement.  If I warmed it up, I was good.  So when my finger caught on the bungee, I knew it was going to be 10 times worse.  There was some tenderness.  There was some swelling…not another finger injury!  I thought I had ended my finger injuries!

But, luckily for me (and luckily for you), I had been reading Dr. Kelly Starrett’s book, Becoming A Supple Leopard.  Becoming A Supple Leopard is all about YOU getting your body healthy.  Dr. Kelly Starrett says that all human beings should be able to perform basic maintenance on themselves.  On pages 217-220, you will find the details of Voodoo Flossing.

Special Note:  If you are really injured, heard something pop, or your finger looks weird; go see your doctor.  

 

What is Voodoo Flossing?

Voodoo Flossing is the Compression part of the (now antiquated?) R-I-C-E (rest, ice, compression, elevation).  But what makes this compression different is that you are wrapping the joint or injury SUPER TIGHT for a short period of time.

The MOST IMPORTANT PART of Voodoo Flossing is that you SKIP THE ICE and SKIP THE NSAID’s (ibuprophen, acetamenaphine, etc.)

The physiology of Voodoo Flossing is discussed in detail in this 26-minute YouTube video with Dr. Kelly Starrett and Gary Reinl.  I encourage you to watch this video and then do your own reading and research about voodoo flossing and skipping NSAIDs and ice.

Who Are These Guys? [Read more…] about Why All Climbers Should Experiment With Voodoo Flossing

Filed Under: Injury Prevention, Voodoo Floss Tagged With: Climbers, Dr. Kelly Starrett, finger injuries, Finger Tweaks, Supple Leopard, Voodoo Flossing

10 Things That Will Make Pooping In The Woods Easier

January 13, 2015 by Jason Clements

 

Always check local rules and ordinances when hiking, climbing, or camping regarding what to do with your waste.  You will have a much more relaxing time knowing the rules of the area.  When you see “primitive” as a description, you know you will have to dig a hole.  Having locals or a park ranger point out that you are pooping wrong can be embarrassing and could get you kicked out of the area or even fined.  Be in the know.  Better yet, always choose to leave no trace.

Here are 10 things that will make pooping in the woods easier for you:

1. Stay Hydrated.  There are few things as bad as being constipated on an outdoor trip.  Drinking the correct amount of water, for you, will keep your digestion moving.  Start by paying attention to your water consumption up to a week before your trip.  If you have a multi-hour drive to your destination, stick to plain water and sip.

2. Eat real, fresh foods in the car and on your trip.  Only eat bars in a pinch.  My recommendation is a maximum of 1 food bar per day.  You should experiment at home, before your trip, to find out how different bars affect your digestion; then decide for yourself how many food bars work for you.  On one of my first outdoor trips, I ate 12 Powerbars.  (You know…in order to save space and not have the hassle of cooking outdoors.)  That was a BIG mistake.  I didn’t poop for 3 days, had gas like a methane station, and my belly was miserable the entire weekend.

3. Before your trip, precut your veggies.  Celery and carrots pack easily, don’t make a mess, and are good for your body.

4. Bring wet wipes.  You’ll thank me later.  My favorite brand is the Costco store brand Kirkland Signature Baby Wipes.  They are large.  They don’t leave fuzz.  I get 2 or 3 Ziploc bags and put an inch of wipes in each.  One goes in the back of the jeep, one goes in my crag pack, one goes in my poop kit.  Also, if your unused wipes dry out, add a little bit of water and they’ll be as good as new. [Read more…] about 10 Things That Will Make Pooping In The Woods Easier

Filed Under: Beginners, Injury Prevention, Poop / Pee Outside Tagged With: camping, pooping, Pooping in the woods

The Best Video For New Climbers To Watch: Correct Lead Belay Technique

December 5, 2013 by Jason Clements

The World’s Worst Belayer: Bad belaying techniques from Petzl-sport on Vimeo.

Filed Under: Climbing and Bouldering Safely, Injury Prevention Tagged With: "rock climbing", Lead Belay, Petzl, Safety

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