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How To Kill The Alligator Belay Technique

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How To Kill The Alligator Belay TechniqueWhen I posted my How To Not Die At 24 Hours Of Horseshoe Hell article, the number one question I received was:

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So I made, probably, the most important climbing video of 2016.  In it, I show you how to kill the Alligator Belay Technique.

The most important point of this series of articles and this video

is that there is a defined moment (I call it the Danger Moment) when you are lead belaying and if these 3 things happen right at the moment that your partner yells “TAKE” or “ON YOU” and you begin to pull slack.

  1. If your muscle memory reverts back to the dangerous alligator belay method;
  2. and your hands meet above your head;
  3. and your climber weighs the rope…

…then you have a gigantic potential for a ground fall.  This is exactly what I witnessed and describe in the How Not To Die…article.

So, for those of you who are serious about improving your belay technique, I give you How To Kill The Alligator Belay Technique.

These 6 minutes just might save you and your climbing partners from injury or worse.

Learn a whole lot more about staying safe in the HCRBeta Injury Prevention Section.

Jason at Olive Ridge Camp CO 85Jason Clements is the founder of and writer for HCRBeta, Hike Climb Relax: How to… Jason has served as the President of the Kansas City Climbing Club where he grew the club from 100 members to 1000 members. Jason lives in Shawnee, Kansas and runs the cell phone recycling company, Cells for Cells, which recycles cell phones to raise money for families battling cancer.

You can follow Jason on Facebook or on Twitter @jasonclements.

SHOP at Dynamic Earth in Springfield, MO for all of your climbing needs.

Not around Springfield, MO? Use these Amazon links. (Yes, by using these Amazon links to purchase gear, you help to support HCRBeta.com. Thank you.

7 Examples Of The Very Dangerous Alligator Belay Technique

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Alligator Belay Technique by the american alpine clubIn this article, you will find 7 examples of the very dangerous Alligator Belay Technique.

Any climber worth their salt, knows that climbing accidents (and falling physics) surprise all of us. (Did you read the article about Chad Watkins falling on lead and getting his Achilles penetrated by the quickdraw’s carabiner!  Talk about unpredictable physics!)

This Alligator Belay Technique that is taught to new TOP ROPERS throughout the world, ingrains the new climber’s muscle memory to meet the hands together at the apex of the movement.    So when they are finally belaying lead, they raise the odds of having an accident.  Your belay device CAN fail when your ropes are in parallel and both of your hands are extended. Alligator Belay Technique by howcast

Now, what happens when you add a suspect Alligator belay technique to the other ingredients of the 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell – dehydration, sleep-deprivation, fatigue, and darkness.  To all of that mix, add just a TOUCH OF UNPREDICTABLE FALLING PHYSICS, and you get the results I wrote in the How To Not Die At 24 Hours Of Horseshoe Hell article.

This is exactly what I observed at the 24 Hours Of Horseshoe Hell competition while I was a volunteer.  The belayer I witnessed, was using this exact method of belay.  As the climber reached the anchors, the belayer fumbled about with the rope as he tried to pull in slack.  Both of the belayer’s hands were extended just like every photo in this article.  Zip.  Thud.  His climber decked.

WHAT DO YOU THINK?

Can you go set up a test at your gym to see what happens? Copy the technique demonstrated here in these photos. Meet both hands together at the apex of the belay movement.  Have your climber weigh the rope at that exact moment.  Record results.

CAUTIONS:Alligator Belay Technique by climbingmagazine

  1. Don’t be stupid
  2. Get a fat bouldering pad beneath you
  3. Belayer wear gloves
  4. You do this at your own risk

THE CORRECT METHOD

It is easy to make the appropriate adjustments.  Keep the brake hand below the device at all times.  That is it.  It is that easy.

Watch this video below for the CORRECT METHOD of belaying:

IN CONCLUSION:

Having both hands above your head or above your belay device can lead to a accident.  Please, stop using the alligator belay technique.

You are smart enough to make the appropriate adjustments. [Read more…] about 7 Examples Of The Very Dangerous Alligator Belay Technique

How To Not Die At 24 Hours Of Horseshoe Hell

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How to not die at 24 hours of horseshoe hell rope burnI was a volunteer at the 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell and saw many climbers ignore basic safety and common sense. With that amount of blatant disregard for safety, the clock is ticking and time will run out.  Hopefully this article will teach you how to not die at 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell.  (Don’t get injured either.)

No matter how smart, talented or capable you are, gravity weighs upon all of us equally.  The universe does not care how long you have climbed or whether or not you kinda sorta hang out with an F-level celebrity in your local climbing community.

Before you stop thinking and knee-jerk yourself with the standard: “Jason, you’re just a party pooper.” Keep in mind, I witnessed these dangerous actions over and over while I was a volunteer.  And, I am not the only one.  Many other climbers who have volunteered have stated the exact same thing: “I saw someone at the third bolt and the belay wasn’t on!”

Today’s Article Will Encourage You To Stay Safe And Help You NOT DIE (or get injured) At 24 Hours Of Horseshoe Hell.

This article is for new climbers, who have never “endurance climbed” and who are psyched to test their limit.  To you I say, “Good luck!”  and  “Stay safe.”

This article is not for those of you who already know everything about climbing because you climb 5.12ish (a few times, indoors) and FA’ed a bunch of stuff near Acapulco.  If you have been climbing for 10+ years, and you are important because you just might be the one F-level celebrity in your community; you can go pour yourself a nice tall glass of I-don’t-want-you-on-my-website.  To you I say: “Go eat a soft boiled egg.”  and “Tick tock.”

(* And yes, I have met many very strong and famous climbers and most are cool, kind, and easy going.  Not all of them are bad eggs.)

You Will Be Climbing At Your Physical Limit While Dehydrated, Sleep-Deprived And In The Dark

Remind yourself, right now, about all of your personal limits and how strictly you will adhere to the very basic rules of climbing.  This will help you avoid injury.  

Don’t skip bolts.  Don’t allow your climbing partner to skip bolts.  Wait to hear that, “Belay is on!”  Then climb.  (Is it too harsh to think that if a climber skips bolts or doesn’t wait for their belay to be on – and they get injured – is it too harsh to think that they deserved it?) [Read more…] about How To Not Die At 24 Hours Of Horseshoe Hell

How To Know When You Are In Dire Need Of Chiropractic

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In THE rock climbing community that I am involved with, I have seen many climbers who were in dire need of chiropractic.

I’ve seen guys and gals use rolls and rolls of KT Tape for weeks and weeks on “injured” elbows, wrists, shoulders – really everywhere.  Some climbing partners I’ve had needed to take MONTHS off from climbing – how sad!

What if they knew there MAY be a simple solution?

Ask yourself these questions to help determine if you are in dire need of chiropractic:

Am I In Dire Need Of Chiropractic? Nah, just flexing in my Organic T.
Am I In Dire Need Of Chiropractic? Nah, just flexing in my Organic T.
  1. I’ve had this injury for a long time
  2. I don’t know why that hurts
  3. I can’t do THAT move because it hurts my ___________ (whatever.)
  4. This injury is not improving
  5. This injury is lasting longer than a week or two
  6. I took a hard or harder than normal fall recently
  7. I’ve been in a car or bike accident recently and did not go to the doctor
  8. I’ve spent more than $100 on KT Tape (in a week!!!)
  9. I regularly take a pain reliever after climbing sessions
  10. Self care is something I practice; but I think I need help
  11. I am good with experimenting with my body and mobbing and stretching and different exercises
  12. Never been to a chiropractor but I am willing to give it a try

If you answer “YES” to more than a few of those questions, you should start the process of seeking out a chiropractor.  And if you answered “YES” to all of those questions, you may be in dire need of chiropractic. [Read more…] about How To Know When You Are In Dire Need Of Chiropractic

Voodoo Floss for Sprained Ankles: Rock Climber Brant Hysell Shares Details

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Voodoo Floss For Sprained Ankles Brant Hysell Shares his DetailsIn one of the coolest, random meetings I’ve ever had at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, I ended up discovering just how quickly a Voodoo Floss session can help in an emergency situation – specifically using voodoo floss for sprained ankles.  [Be Advised: HCRBeta and Jason Clements offers no medical nor diagnostic services. In an emergency, call 911 or your doctor.]

After the first wrap it started to feel better. – Brant Hysell

We were a group of about 10 or 12 boulderers at the Loaf Boulder in Horseshoe Canyon ranch. We all just sent the classic 4-star boulder called Dig Dug. And up through the trail walks a guy with, what I thought, was a soft cast on his ankle. I thought to myself, “What a Bad Ass! Dude is out here climbing with a broken ankle.” I’ve always had a deep appreciation for anyone who pushes themselves through a difficulty.

I approached this bad-ass rock climber and asked him what happened…

Ladies and Gentlemen, meet Brant Hysell.

Voodoo Floss For Ankles Brant Hysell Yoga at Sunrise

Voodoo Floss for Ankles Brant Hysell KayakingHCRB: What is that last good book you read?

Brant: Wild – Cheryl Strayed hiking the Pacific Crest Trail

HCRB: Favorite outdoor activity?

Brant: Sport climbing followed quickly by bouldering and camping.

HCRB: What is your go to beverage for a relaxing evening?

Brant: Dale’s Pale Ale by Oskar Blues brewing company

HCRB: Few people know you are an expert at…

Brant: Experienced in weight lifting, yoga, data analytics

HCRB: Favorite one-line joke?

Brant: What do you call a cow with no legs? – Ground beef

HCRB: Last show you binge watched?

Brant: Star Wars (the movies)

HCRB: Best 3 tips for enjoying any outdoor adventures (hiking, climbing, relaxing)?

Brant:

  1. Focus on the adventure, not the destination
  2. Go hard or go home
  3. Breathe

Da Vincis Drawing of the foot Voodoo Floss for Sprained AnklesHCRB:  What happened to your ankle just prior to our random meeting at HCR? [Read more…] about Voodoo Floss for Sprained Ankles: Rock Climber Brant Hysell Shares Details

ClimbSkin Review Pros and Cons [Pictures and Proof]

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The ClimbSkin Review Pros and ConsI enjoy rock climbing, and more specifically, I enjoy bouldering.  Every sesh, I want to improve.  I want an edge.  I want my skin healthy and strong so that my skin is not limiting my improvements.

So when my friend, Richard Lonski told me that he completed a birthday challenge that included something like a hundred laps – and he did NOT destroy his hands – because he used Friction Labs ClimbSkin, that got my attention.

Just so you know my biases, I have an affiliate account with Frictions Labs.  They make excellent chalk – it is worth trying if you are serious about improving your climbing.  You might like it; you might not.  That’s okay.

Keah Kalantari is one of the Founders at Frictions Labs – he shipped me a container of ClimbSkin at no cost to me.  He didn’t request a review in return for the ClimbSkin.  I did this experiment with ClimbSkin of my own accord.

ClimbSkin Review Pros and Cons: Here is My Experience

Pros:

  • ClimbSkin really works.  An Example:  I spent 6 hours working on a horizontal roof problem with little skin damage and nearly no skin soreness afterwards.
  • You only use a little bit with each application.  It should last many months for the average climber who climbs 3 to 4 times per week.
  • Friction Labs offers a 100% satisfaction guarantee
  • Many, many testimonials of real, satisfied customers
  • Solid owner, solid team behind it
  • You don’t need to be a climber to benefit from ClimbSkin

Testimonial from a Nurse I know through THE Climbing Community

ClimbSkin Testimonial from a NurseCons:

  • Chemicals in the ingredients
  • On sale ClimbSkin costs $20 per ounce
  • Your skin might become too callused (You must add an emery board to your kit.)
  • The label states:  Topic[al] Use Only

ClimbSkin Review Pros and Cons: How I Set Up My Experiment
 [Read more…] about ClimbSkin Review Pros and Cons [Pictures and Proof]