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Voodoo Flossing

Dr. Lisa Erikson’s Notes On Voodoo Flossing For Rock Climbers

March 8, 2016 by Jason Clements

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***Please Note:  I am Jason Clements and I am not a doctor nor a physical therapist.  I write about my outdoor experiences.  I believe in self-care, self-experimentation, and problem solving.  IF YOU ARE INJURED, go see your doctor.  Don’t be an idiot — a phrase that Dr. Lisa and I both agree upon.

I am going to make a gigantic claim about Voodoo Flossing at the end of this article…


But First, What Does The Doctor Say?  Enter Dr. Lisa Erikson

An avid mulitsport athlete, Dr. Lisa competed in collegiate running, cycling, and nordic skiing. A trail runner, ultrarunner, climber, and nordic skier, Dr. Lisa is a Palmer-West College of Chiropractic Alumni with a specialization in Sports Chiropractic and Chiropractic Biomechanics of Posture. She also has a BS in Cellular Biology and Neuroscience from MSU-Bozeman and additional X-ray Diagnostic training. The medical provider for USAClimbing from 2009 to present, she has written a book on climbing injuries and devoted herself to the elimination of injuries compiled by missing self-care and abnormal loading patterns.

Dr. Lisa Erikson is the author of Climbing Injuries Solved.  She is the doctor who has treated some of the top climbers in the world:  Dave Graham, Daniel Woods, Angie Payne.

Dr. Lisa commented on my Video titled “Why Every Climber Should Experiment With Voodoo Flossing.”

Great video Jason. I have gotten a bunch of questions about your video in office so I thought I’d clarify ONE thing-

Readers- Just as a heads up (because I get TONS of this question in office), Voodoo flossing is for adhesions between the skin, muscle, tendons and connective tissue.

Think of a popcorn ball of scar tissue or a piece of bubble gum between the different tissues that binds them abnormally together. This is what Voodoo flossing rips up!

These adhesions limit the amount of motion that occurs under the skin because everything is stuck together, especially after long term swelling or inflammation as we see in our favorite sport.

Great video and fabulous for this region…

     1. Voodoo flossing does NOT decrease muscle tone (or hasn’t been shown to yet) and is NOT for tendonitis of the forearm or finger…

     2. Voodoo flossing IS for lost range of motion or for treatment of reduction of these ranges of motion.

     3. A few treatments should do it, this doesn’t need to be a weekly treatment as once these adhesions are ripped up, you have to earn them back.

Thanks for putting this out there Jason, knowledge is power! -Dr. Lisa


Jason’s Gigantic Claim About Voodoo Flossing: [Read more…] about Dr. Lisa Erikson’s Notes On Voodoo Flossing For Rock Climbers

Filed Under: Injury Prevention, Voodoo Floss Tagged With: Climbing Injuries Solved, Dr. Lisa Erikson, Voodoo Flossing, Voodoo Flossing for Rock Climbers

The Best Videos That Benefit The Kansas City Climbing Community

February 18, 2016 by Jason Clements

The Best Videos That Benefit The Kansas City Climbing Community 02.16Here are the best videos that benefit the Kansas City climbing community.  Take a quick look ESPECIALLY if you are brand new to hiking, climbing, or camping.

I don’t claim to be an expert at anything.  These are the strategies that I use.  I’ve taken what I’ve learned from my own experiences and from talking to dozens of my fellow climbers; and put together these videos.  You will come to discover that some of the best members of your climbing community are always learning new ideas and tips – and improving themselves – and they ultimately share their best-practice ideas.

My way is not necessarily better than another way.  Take what you want.  Skip what doesn’t work for you.  And you can share your best tips in the comments here or on the YouTube videos.


No Loose Chalk

Do you ever see signs posted in your gym that say, “NO LOOSE CHALK.”  What that means is they do no want you to pour your climbing chalk into your chalk bag while at the gym.  Your gym wants you to use a chalk ball.

The employees of your climbing gym have plenty of responsibilities – like keeping you safe (and the new climbers safe) giving beta, fixing spinners, getting your friends some rental gear, etc.  The last thing you want those employees spending time on is cleaning up your chalk spill. 

How To Fill Your Chalk Ball The Quick and Easy Way (3:45)

Finger Injuries…Noooooooo!!!

You’ve got to try Voodoo Flossing on your fingers, wrists, elbows, shoulders.  It works on sore forearms and sore calves.  I’ve heard stories of seriously sprained ankles healing in a day or two.  Sure, I am not a doctor; and yes, every body is different.  But the stories I keep hearing give me great pause: “Is this really a tool that everyone should experiment with…”

Here’s How to Voodoo Floss Your Fingers (2:15)

How much did your tent cost?  How much did your sleeping bag cost?

Yeah, those are quite the investment.  And just like all of your climbing gear, you can perform some very simple maintenance on your soft gear (tents, sleeping bags, etc.) to help extend their life.

Here’s How to Store Your Expensive Sleeping Bag (1:09)

Here’s How to Store Your Tent For The Winter (1:45)

Bathroom.  Yes, we have to talk about pooping in the woods.

Depending on where you are going, (ha ha, get it: “going”) you will have to know the rules for managing your waste.  Some climbing places have full facilities – like they have at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch.  Some other climbing destinations only have pit toilets – like at Sam’s Throne.  And some places you are going to have to dig a hole to do your stuff.

Pro Tip:  If you have to dig a hole; dig it at least as deep as your trowel is long.

Here is How I Build My Ultimate Poop / Toilet Kit. (2:25)

If you are a part of the Kansas City climbing community or any other climbing community, thank you for watching.  Please share your tips and ideas in the comment section here or on YouTube.

Enjoy your next adventure!


 

Read more about other hiking, climbing, and camping tools and ideas in HCRBeta’s Gear Category. 


Jason at Olive Ridge Camp CO 85Jason Clements is the founder of and writer for HCRBeta, Hike Climb Relax:  How to…  Jason has served as the President of the Kansas City Climbing Club.  He lives in Shawnee, Kansas and also runs the cell phone recycling company, Cells for Cells, which recycles cell phones to raise money for families battling cancer.  You can follow Jason on Facebook or on Twitter @jasonclements.

Filed Under: Beginners, Kansas City Climbing Club, Movies, Poop / Pee Outside Tagged With: Chalk Ball, Kansas City Climbing Club, Kansas City Climbing Community, sleeping bag, Tent, Voodoo Flossing

The Best Selling Climbing Gear With HCRBeta Readers

October 7, 2015 by Jason Clements

Anna Topping Out on the Warm Up Boulder at HCRI did some analysis of the Best Selling Climbing Gear with HCRBeta readers for this last year.

It is interesting that four of the top six sellers are not classical climbing gear items!  They are, in fact, items associated with pain relief.

Not surprisingly, the number one seller is the Aylio Exercise Bands.  With the Voodoo Flossing articles garnering the most traffic in the last few months, it appears that most climbers are looking for a solution for finger injuries.

So, I’ll repeat right here:

Special Note:  If you are really injured, heard something pop, or your finger looks weird; go see your doctor.  


The Best Selling Climbing Gear With HCRBeta Readers

 

1.  Aylio Exercsie Bands

Aylio Exercise Bands

[Read more…] about The Best Selling Climbing Gear With HCRBeta Readers

Filed Under: Gear Tagged With: back pain, climbing gear, finger injuries, massage gear, Voodoo Flossing

CONFIRMED: Voodoo Flossing Helps Climbing Injuries

September 7, 2015 by Jason Clements

It is confirmed:  Voodoo flossing helps climbing injuries.

My article “Why All Climbers Should Experiment With Voodoo Flossing” is being discussed in the UK Bouldering Forum.  It was quickly obvious that many, if not all of the climbers were experiencing positive results with Voodoo Flossing.  Most stated that finger injuries were improving.  Others stated that elbow and shoulder injuries were also helped.

“…good feeling results.”

“…went from limited range of motion to full range of motion with no pain.”

“…the niggling feeling near my A2 is pretty much gone.”

“…results are remarkable.”

And this one is my favorite comments because the writer first states on August 13th:

“I did it on the hour all day yesterday and my tweaky finger just feels more agitated.”

[Read more…] about CONFIRMED: Voodoo Flossing Helps Climbing Injuries

Filed Under: Injury Prevention, Voodoo Floss Tagged With: bouldering, Climbing, finger injuries, Voodoo Flossing

Why All Climbers Should Experiment With Voodoo Flossing

July 27, 2015 by Jason Clements

Quickly heal an injured finger
Could I quickly heal this injured finger?

**Updated Notes With Real Results from Climbers Experimenting with Voodoo Flossing.  Confirmed: Voodoo Flossing Helps Climbing Injuries


My first experience with Voodoo Flossing made me shake my head and say to myself, “Naw, that can’t be real.”

What appeared to be a very bad finger injury was 100% better in less than 48 hours.  I Voodoo Flossed my finger about 2 dozen times and the pain was gone, the swelling was gone.  My finger was nearly 100% recovered.    [That is NOT hyperbole.]

I was unloading my climbing gear.  As I lifted the bouldering pad off of the cargo holder, the middle finger of my right hand caught on a bungee cord. My finger bent sideways. Youch!  That sucked; and I knew it was bad.

My middle finger was already a little bit tweaked before this trip; but I still climbed my hardest.  And, during the trip, I only experienced a little bit of discomfort if I gave my finger a bit of lateral movement.  If I warmed it up, I was good.  So when my finger caught on the bungee, I knew it was going to be 10 times worse.  There was some tenderness.  There was some swelling…not another finger injury!  I thought I had ended my finger injuries!

But, luckily for me (and luckily for you), I had been reading Dr. Kelly Starrett’s book, Becoming A Supple Leopard.  Becoming A Supple Leopard is all about YOU getting your body healthy.  Dr. Kelly Starrett says that all human beings should be able to perform basic maintenance on themselves.  On pages 217-220, you will find the details of Voodoo Flossing.

Special Note:  If you are really injured, heard something pop, or your finger looks weird; go see your doctor.  

 

What is Voodoo Flossing?

Voodoo Flossing is the Compression part of the (now antiquated?) R-I-C-E (rest, ice, compression, elevation).  But what makes this compression different is that you are wrapping the joint or injury SUPER TIGHT for a short period of time.

The MOST IMPORTANT PART of Voodoo Flossing is that you SKIP THE ICE and SKIP THE NSAID’s (ibuprophen, acetamenaphine, etc.)

The physiology of Voodoo Flossing is discussed in detail in this 26-minute YouTube video with Dr. Kelly Starrett and Gary Reinl.  I encourage you to watch this video and then do your own reading and research about voodoo flossing and skipping NSAIDs and ice.

Who Are These Guys? [Read more…] about Why All Climbers Should Experiment With Voodoo Flossing

Filed Under: Injury Prevention, Voodoo Floss Tagged With: Climbers, Dr. Kelly Starrett, finger injuries, Finger Tweaks, Supple Leopard, Voodoo Flossing

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