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7 Examples Of The Very Dangerous Alligator Belay Technique

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Alligator Belay Technique by the american alpine clubIn this article, you will find 7 examples of the very dangerous Alligator Belay Technique.

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This Alligator Belay Technique that is taught to new TOP ROPERS throughout the world, ingrains the new climber’s muscle memory to meet the hands together at the apex of the movement.    So when they are finally belaying lead, they raise the odds of having an accident.  Your belay device CAN fail when your ropes are in parallel and both of your hands are extended. Alligator Belay Technique by howcast

Now, what happens when you add a suspect Alligator belay technique to the other ingredients of the 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell – dehydration, sleep-deprivation, fatigue, and darkness.  To all of that mix, add just a TOUCH OF UNPREDICTABLE FALLING PHYSICS, and you get the results I wrote in the How To Not Die At 24 Hours Of Horseshoe Hell article.

This is exactly what I observed at the 24 Hours Of Horseshoe Hell competition while I was a volunteer.  The belayer I witnessed, was using this exact method of belay.  As the climber reached the anchors, the belayer fumbled about with the rope as he tried to pull in slack.  Both of the belayer’s hands were extended just like every photo in this article.  Zip.  Thud.  His climber decked.

WHAT DO YOU THINK?

Can you go set up a test at your gym to see what happens? Copy the technique demonstrated here in these photos. Meet both hands together at the apex of the belay movement.  Have your climber weigh the rope at that exact moment.  Record results.

CAUTIONS:Alligator Belay Technique by climbingmagazine

  1. Don’t be stupid
  2. Get a fat bouldering pad beneath you
  3. Belayer wear gloves
  4. You do this at your own risk

THE CORRECT METHOD

It is easy to make the appropriate adjustments.  Keep the brake hand below the device at all times.  That is it.  It is that easy.

Watch this video below for the CORRECT METHOD of belaying:

IN CONCLUSION:

Having both hands above your head or above your belay device can lead to a accident.  Please, stop using the alligator belay technique.

You are smart enough to make the appropriate adjustments. [Read more…] about 7 Examples Of The Very Dangerous Alligator Belay Technique

How To Not Die At 24 Hours Of Horseshoe Hell

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How to not die at 24 hours of horseshoe hell rope burnI was a volunteer at the 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell and saw many climbers ignore basic safety and common sense. With that amount of blatant disregard for safety, the clock is ticking and time will run out.  Hopefully this article will teach you how to not die at 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell.  (Don’t get injured either.)

No matter how smart, talented or capable you are, gravity weighs upon all of us equally.  The universe does not care how long you have climbed or whether or not you kinda sorta hang out with an F-level celebrity in your local climbing community.

Before you stop thinking and knee-jerk yourself with the standard: “Jason, you’re just a party pooper.” Keep in mind, I witnessed these dangerous actions over and over while I was a volunteer.  And, I am not the only one.  Many other climbers who have volunteered have stated the exact same thing: “I saw someone at the third bolt and the belay wasn’t on!”

Today’s Article Will Encourage You To Stay Safe And Help You NOT DIE (or get injured) At 24 Hours Of Horseshoe Hell.

This article is for new climbers, who have never “endurance climbed” and who are psyched to test their limit.  To you I say, “Good luck!”  and  “Stay safe.”

This article is not for those of you who already know everything about climbing because you climb 5.12ish (a few times, indoors) and FA’ed a bunch of stuff near Acapulco.  If you have been climbing for 10+ years, and you are important because you just might be the one F-level celebrity in your community; you can go pour yourself a nice tall glass of I-don’t-want-you-on-my-website.  To you I say: “Go eat a soft boiled egg.”  and “Tick tock.”

(* And yes, I have met many very strong and famous climbers and most are cool, kind, and easy going.  Not all of them are bad eggs.)

You Will Be Climbing At Your Physical Limit While Dehydrated, Sleep-Deprived And In The Dark

Remind yourself, right now, about all of your personal limits and how strictly you will adhere to the very basic rules of climbing.  This will help you avoid injury.  

Don’t skip bolts.  Don’t allow your climbing partner to skip bolts.  Wait to hear that, “Belay is on!”  Then climb.  (Is it too harsh to think that if a climber skips bolts or doesn’t wait for their belay to be on – and they get injured – is it too harsh to think that they deserved it?) [Read more…] about How To Not Die At 24 Hours Of Horseshoe Hell

8 Skin Care Tips For Rock Climbers And Boulderers

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8 Skin Care Tips for Rock Climbers and BoulderersDo you love feeling on the tips of your fingers after a weekend of climbing.  Do you love feeling your callouses thickening up?  Have you thought about what is the best skin care for rock climbers and boulderers?  Many climbers know by now that the best skin care comes from your diet, a solid salve, and good self-care practices.

Here are 8 skin care tips for rock climbers and boulderers.

  1. Never Pull A Flapper or a Hangnail
  2. Never Wash Dishes or Soak in Epsom Salt Before You Climb
  3. Consider Increasing Your Consumption of Omega-3 Foods
  4. Consider Increasing Your Consumption of Coconut Oil
  5. Have A Brick, Cinder Block, Or Chunk of Rock as Part of Your Workout Gear
  6. Use an Emory Board or Sheet of Sandpaper to Keep Your Callouses Healthy
  7. Use Salve Specifically Created for Rock Climbers
  8. Stop Doing Dynos and Try That Move Statically

Never Pull A Flapper or a HangnailRock Climber Tools for Skin Care

Whether those were pieces of flappers or hangnails, the worst thing you can do is pull (or chew – blech!  Disgusting!) at those bits of flesh on your hands and fingers.

The best thing you can do for your small injuries – like flappers and hangnails – is to always carry a nail clipper or tiny scissors in your climbing pack.  Take a moment to carefully trim the dead or torn flesh away.  If you are done climbing for the day, care for your injuries as you normally would (wash, healing salve, bandage).  Or, just tape it up and keep climbing!

How many times have you pulled a bit of your flesh only to have it pull right further into undamaged tissue.  Oh, that sting!  And the first thing you think is, “I SHOULD NOT HAVE DONE THAT!” [Read more…] about 8 Skin Care Tips For Rock Climbers And Boulderers

End Finger Injuries: The Four Best Hand Exercisers For Rock Climbers

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http://arvalis.deviantart.com/art/Muscles-of-the-Hand-89698613
Muscles of the Hand by arvalis via deviantart.com

The usual disclaimer: This is just my experience and my opinion. This is what works for me. If you have a different experience, feel free to share in the comments. I am not a doctor, nor do I play one on the interwebs.  However, I embrace the concept of self-experimentation and the value of N=1 data for personal improvement.

FINGER INJURIES

Finger injuries are one of the worst things in the world for rock climbers.  I hope you haven’t experienced nor will ever have to experience a finger injury that required surgery.  Surgical repair is outside of the scope of this article.  But, if you are a new climber, you may want to listen up.  You CAN reduce the incidence of finger injuries by following one simple rule.  Warm up.  Yup.  It is that simple.  Warm up your fingers and you can reduce your finger strains, tweeks, and injuries.  Obviously, there are other factors that can contribute to your finger health such as diet, sleep, water, previous injury, and the like; but here, we are going to focus on warming up with hand exercisers.  My hope is that you can learn something from my experience to help you end finger injuries.

If you are going to spend money on a device to help you climb harder and healthier, make the GripMaster Pro Hand your first purchase. Since I started using the Pro Hand, I’ve stopped having finger injuries (*more at the end of the review).  Continue Reading