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CONFIRMED: Voodoo Flossing Helps Climbing Injuries

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It is confirmed:  Voodoo flossing helps climbing injuries.

My article “Why All Climbers Should Experiment With Voodoo Flossing” is being discussed in the UK Bouldering Forum.  It was quickly obvious that many, if not all of the climbers were experiencing positive results with Voodoo Flossing.  Most stated that finger injuries were improving.  Others stated that elbow and shoulder injuries were also helped.

“…good feeling results.”

“…went from limited range of motion to full range of motion with no pain.”

“…the niggling feeling near my A2 is pretty much gone.”

“…results are remarkable.”

And this one is my favorite comments because the writer first states on August 13th:

“I did it on the hour all day yesterday and my tweaky finger just feels more agitated.”

[Read more…] about CONFIRMED: Voodoo Flossing Helps Climbing Injuries

Meet Kevin Brown: Owner at Friction Labs and Denver Bouldering Club

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Kevin Brown Climbing 1Kevin Brown is the owner of Friction Labs and the Denver Bouldering Club.  Kevin sent me a sample of all three blends of his new chalk and you can read that review right here.

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Meet Kevin Brown: Owner at Friction Labs and Denver Bouldering Club

HCRB:  What makes Friction Labs climbing chalk so special?

Kevin:  We use higher grade compounds to make our chalk.  The end result is a chalk with very high Magnesium Carbonate and very low Calcium Carbonate.  We also offer 3 different textures so climbers can pick their favorite.

HCRB:  How in the world did you come up with the idea to make a chalk company?

Kevin:  We grew frustrated at running out of chalk and being stuck with what ever the gym had in stock.  We started researching chalk and found that there are a bunch of distributors out of China, so we went a different direction and researched all of the options and production methods.  From there we went to the lab and got to work.  Right away we felt a difference, had all of our friends try it and they all said it was way better.  We knew we had a better product, so we figured out texture and started offering subscriptions, so you never had to be with out your favorite chalk.

Friction Labs 3HCRB:  What is the inspiration behind the names Bam Bam, Gorilla Grip, Unicorn Dust? [Read more…] about Meet Kevin Brown: Owner at Friction Labs and Denver Bouldering Club

Climbing Chalk Review: Friction Labs Climbing Chalk

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Friction Labs 3

CLIMBING CHALK REVIEW;  FRICTION LAB CLIMBING CHALK

Summary

Purchase some of the World’s best climbing chalk at The Friction Labs Store.

Pros:

  • Friction Labs Climbing Chalk (F.L.) does climbing chalk the right way.
  • F.L. is significantly better than the “Wal-Mart-style” cheap chalks; and a solid degree better than, what I believe was the premiere brand of chalk, Bison.
  • F.L. is stickier and lasts longer on your hands for multiple burns.
  • F.L. has the science to back up their claims.
  • F.L. has a robust website that will answer all of your questions.
  • F.L. has 3 different blends to choose from: Bam Bam, Gorilla Grip, Unicorn Dust
  • F.L. has a very convenient auto-ship service.
  • F.L. creates a relationship with their fans.
  • F.L. can be used in your regular workouts with dumbbells, kettlebells, etc.

Cons:

  • You will pay more for a quality product.
  • I don’t like the wording of their guarantee.  But I am certain that if you don’t act like a complete grocery bag, and you happen to be the 1 out of 1,000,000 people who may not like the F.L. chalk, their customer service will probably treat you right.

A Little Background on My Opinion – I Have Been a Bison Chalk Snob

I am a chalk snob in the same way that I am a beer snob.  Bud Light just doesn’t taste like anything I want to put in my mouth.  Gross!  Give me a Boulevard Tank 7 and I can taste the fruit tanginess and full flavor and the long crisp finish.  Pair that Tank 7 with any pizza and I am in Heaven.

Evolv Chalk made in China
Evolv Chalk made in China

Yeah, I’ve tried all the Wal-Mart-style cheap chalks like Metolius, Evolv, Black Diamond.  Those are just entry-level chalks.  Plain and simple.  You can burn through a brick or container of that cheap stuff in a busy weekend.  All of those are gritty and you just about have to chalk up after every single move.  You really get what you pay for with those brands…not much besides the basic idea of chalk to keep your hands dry. Continue Reading

Chris Deulen: Strong Business Owner, Strong Dad, Strong Climber

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Deulen ChillinDeulen Chillin 2

I admire Chris Deulen.  He is warm and approachable.  He is a fantastic dad.  He runs his own business in a very eco-smart manner.  And, he is one bad-ass climber.  I think he may be one of the strongest climbers in the area.  Chris takes time out of his very busy schedule, to answer some HCR: Beta questions.  Ladies and Gentlemen:  Chris Deulen…

HCRB:  How long have you been climbing?

Chris:  12+years

HCRB:  What are three things that every new climber should know about…

Chris:

  • Bouldering… 1. You can always climb harder than you think. 2. Not getting injured is a fine line to walk; educate yourself! 3. Visualize, visualize, visualize.
  • Lead climbing… 1. Triple check your set-ups. 2. Travel as much as you can. 3. Go Al-Muerte often (and don’t be afraid to scream!).
  • Climbing etiquette… 1. Learn what spray means. 2. Leave no trace. 3. Treat all people with respect and empathy.
  • Safety… 1.The longer you climb, the more serious you realize it is. 2. I’ve seen a mom hit the deck on her heals being belayed by her son. I’ve broken my ankle from improper pad placement, sprained the same ankle from running down a trail. Having a greater state of awareness will help you to live longer, and healthier. 3. In a hairy situation: breathe deeply, assess your options, learn to discern good fear from bad fear, then move!

HCRB:  What one exercise should every new climber do? Continue Reading

Horseshoe Canyan Ranch And Fountain Red: 16 Boulder Problems In 16 Minutes

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If you are on the cusp of moving from beginner boulderer up to the next level, you will enjoy this video by Adam Johnson.  You’ll see 16 problems in 16 minutes.  Adam climbs many of the classic V3, V4, and V5 problems at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and Fountain Red – two of my favorite bouldering destinations.  You’ll also see a handful V6, V7 and V8 problems that should be on your tick list.

The only downside of the flick is some nsfw language on one of the songs.  And the only criticism I have of the flick is the camera angle on The Crescent.  The Crescent has some of the coolest body positioning for a classic V3 problem that Adam does not quite capture in the camera angle that he chose.

Enjoy 16 minutes of awesomeness!

Safe climbing to you!

Single Digit Boulders in Arkansas from adam johnson on Vimeo.

The Importance Of Self-Experimentation: YOU Are In Charge Of Your Health

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You Are In Charge Of Your Health

If you are not hitting your heath, weight-loss, or sports performance goals, it may be worthwhile to ask yourself a few questions:

  • Is what I am currently doing for my health, working for me?
  • What if some of my personal beliefs about diet and exercise are off?
  • Where did my information about diet and exercise come from?  Why do I believe it?
  • Am I open to trying something completely different?

When it comes to losing weight and getting healthy, you are in charge. Let me write that again:  YOU are in charge.  And this is exactly why self-experimentation is important to you.

Before and After Jason
Before (190lbs) and After (176lbs)

The picture to the right shows the results of my self-experimentation.  The pictures are only 30 days apart!

I am n=1: The Importance Of  Self-Experimentation

Calories That I Ate On Jan 22
FAT: I ate like this to get in the best shape of my life

There is a current trend to shed the popular one-size-fits-all low-fat diet and (a-hem) your doctor’s bad advice about eating and health and sports performance; and embrace this concept of n=1.

What is n=1?  N=1 means, “I will find out what works for me!”  N=1 is a way to describe an experiment with one test subject…YOU.  N=1 means that you collected data about yourself.   N=1 is anecdotal evidence.  But, can n=1 give groundbreaking information about you?  Maybe.

A very simple example for me is:  When I eat a high-fat, low-carb diet (as the graph shows); I lose weight, sleep better, feel better, and some minor joint pains go away.  This is what works for ME.

Do you know what works for you?

If you have found something that works for you, please share in the comments.

More details soon about the crazy way I lost 20 pounds of fat and gained 7 pounds of muscle.  I also went from bouldering V2 to V6 during this experimentation time.  (I used this increase in bouldering ability as MY true measure of success during this diet and exercise program that I created for myself.)

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You Will Be Okay!

Did you overeat this Thanksgiving weekend?  Feeling fat and bloated?  Mentally beating yourself up for all the dessert you ate?  Oh, how human of you!

It is human of us to enjoy good food.  It is human of us to associate a wonderful meal with happiness and contentment.  It is also human of us to not exactly know how to get the fat off our our midsection, butt, and thighs.  Is it human of us to have to sort through tons and tons of diet and weight loss information and opinions?

There is no need to beat yourself up mentally about where you are with your health, fitness, or fat loss goals.  If you haven’t found what works for you yet, just keep looking.