The Importance Of Self-Experimentation: YOU Are In Charge Of Your Health

December 2, 2013 by Jason Clements

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If you are not hitting your heath, weight-loss, or sports performance goals, it may be worthwhile to ask yourself a few questions:

Is what I am currently doing for my health, working for me?
What if some of my personal beliefs about diet and exercise are off?
Where did my information about diet and exercise come from? Why do I believe it?
Am I open to trying something completely different?

When it comes to losing weight and getting healthy, you are in charge. Let me write that again: YOU are in charge. And this is exactly why self-experimentation is important to you.

Before and After Jason — Before (190lbs) and After (176lbs)

The picture to the right shows the results of my self-experimentation. The pictures are only 30 days apart!

I am n=1: The Importance Of Self-Experimentation

Calories That I Ate On Jan 22 — FAT: I ate like this to get in the best shape of my life

There is a current trend to shed the popular one-size-fits-all low-fat diet and (a-hem) your doctor’s ~~bad~~ advice about eating and health and sports performance; and embrace this concept of n=1.

What is n=1? N=1 means, “I will find out what works for me!” N=1 is a way to describe an experiment with one test subject…YOU. N=1 means that you collected data about yourself. N=1 is anecdotal evidence. But, can n=1 give groundbreaking information about you? Maybe.

A very simple example for me is: When I eat a high-fat, low-carb diet (as the graph shows); I lose weight, sleep better, feel better, and some minor joint pains go away. This is what works for ME.

Do you know what works for you?

If you have found something that works for you, please share in the comments.

More details soon about the crazy way I lost 20 pounds of fat and gained 7 pounds of muscle. I also went from bouldering V2 to V6 during this experimentation time. (I used this increase in bouldering ability as MY true measure of success during this diet and exercise program that I created for myself.)

______________________________________________________________________

You Will Be Okay!

Did you overeat this Thanksgiving weekend? Feeling fat and bloated? Mentally beating yourself up for all the dessert you ate? Oh, how human of you!

It is human of us to enjoy good food. It is human of us to associate a wonderful meal with happiness and contentment. It is also human of us to not exactly know how to get the fat off our our midsection, butt, and thighs. Is it human of us to have to sort through tons and tons of diet and weight loss information and opinions?

There is no need to beat yourself up mentally about where you are with your health, fitness, or fat loss goals. If you haven’t found what works for you yet, just keep looking.

End Finger Injuries: The Four Best Hand Exercisers For Rock Climbers

October 11, 2013 by Jason Clements

http://arvalis.deviantart.com/art/Muscles-of-the-Hand-89698613 — Muscles of the Hand by arvalis via deviantart.com

The usual disclaimer: This is just my experience and my opinion. This is what works for me. If you have a different experience, feel free to share in the comments. I am not a doctor, nor do I play one on the interwebs. However, I embrace the concept of self-experimentation and the value of N=1 data for personal improvement.

FINGER INJURIES

Finger injuries are one of the worst things in the world for rock climbers. I hope you haven’t experienced nor will ever have to experience a finger injury that required surgery. Surgical repair is outside of the scope of this article. But, if you are a new climber, you may want to listen up. You CAN reduce the incidence of finger injuries by following one simple rule. Warm up. Yup. It is that simple. Warm up your fingers and you can reduce your finger strains, tweeks, and injuries. Obviously, there are other factors that can contribute to your finger health such as diet, sleep, water, previous injury, and the like; but here, we are going to focus on warming up with hand exercisers. My hope is that you can learn something from my experience to help you end finger injuries.

If you are going to spend money on a device to help you climb harder and healthier, make the GripMaster Pro Hand your first purchase. Since I started using the Pro Hand, I’ve stopped having finger injuries (*more at the end of the review). Continue Reading

Crash Pads: Josh Helke Builds Quality Climbing Gear

October 2, 2013 by Jason Clements

If you are a climber, you have probably seen (or fallen on) an Organic Bouldering Mat. The unique designs and bright colors make an Organic pad easy to spot. What you may not know is that Josh Helke runs a sustainable business that is worthy of your attention.

Here is a 4-minute overview of how the Organic Climbing Crashpad is made.

And if you are ready for an interview with Josh Helke, owner of Organic Climbing, read on…

HCRB: What are 4 things that anyone can do right now to be a better recycler?

Josh: 1, Be smart about the gear you choose. Purchase stuff that is made to last. In the long run, buying quality is cheaper. Quality gear lasts longer – so it is better for your pocket book and the planet. 2, Own a reusable water bottle. Even if they can be recycled, plastic bottles from water and soft drinks are an incredible waste of energy and resources. 3. Buy used and donate when you are done. Others will carry on the use-cycle. 4. Repair your electronics and use them as long as you can. Recycle them when they can’t be repaired.

HCRB: We talked back in 2009 when you were in Wyoming. Where are you now?

Josh: We relocated 3 years ago to Central PA as my wife took a job at Penn State in the Geology department. Additionally, the deep-rooted textile history, and the talent in the surrounding mountains was a natural fit for the made-in-USA nature of our company.

HCRB: What sustainable practices are you embracing now in the manufacturing of Organic Climbing Mats?

Josh: We recycle all of our cutting scraps into every product that we make. These are what become the one-of-a-kind multi-color designs people have come to know over the last 10 years as ORGANIC products. We also use made-in-the-USA fabrics manufactured within a few hundred miles of our factory. And because all our products are made in the USA, our manufacturing footprint is substantially smaller than that of the larger companies making their sewn goods in Asia.

HCRB: What are you doing differently in your personal life now to be friendlier to our planet? Continue Reading

Free Movie Fridays: Jimmy Webb in Switzerland

July 19, 2013 by Jason Clements

Wow! This movie has it all. You’ll experience beautiful cinematography, happy beats and incredible sends. The camera angle (at 4:09) on the classic boulder Dreamtime V14 in Cresiano will make you appreciate the difficulty. You’ll see Jimmy Webb’s (at 12:43) incredible send of Off the Wagon. And there is so much more! Chalk up because your palms are gonna get sweaty. Enjoy!

Miss Schweiz from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

Additional Viewing Pleasures

Jan Hojer sends Chris Sharma’s Off The Wagon from Dosage 4

Relax and Live In The Moment: Enjoying Your Next River Adventure

July 18, 2013 by Jason Clements

This is the final installment of the River Ties interview with Guy and Matt. In part 1, we met the artists behind the River Ties project. In part 2, we learned what it takes to make a river documentary. And now, in part 3, Guy and Matt share their expertise and tips to help YOU decide if you want to embark on a river adventure.

HCRB: How does someone get started with big river adventures?

Guy: This group had always been on rivers, mostly in the Ozarks. But they got into these big western trips after taking commercial trips on the Grand Canyon, saw how the guides operated and thought, “hey, we can do that.”

HCRB: What kind of gear should a first-timer invest in?

Guy: A PFD (personal floatation device) to keep your head above water and dry bags for your gear, nobody likes a wet sleeping bag. Some river reading and running skills also never hurt anyone!

HCRB: How accessible is the Green River?

Guy: Many sections require a permit, some are via a lottery while others are first come first serve. The water itself depends on the section and the season. There is everything from whitewater to pretty flat water.

HCRB: What about those of us around Kansas City, where is a good place to start a water adventure?

Guy: We are very fortunate to have such a fantastic river system in the Ozarks, right next to all of our climbing, camping and hiking that we all do down there anyway. The Ozark Mountain Paddlers is a club out of the Springfield area that is a great resource for information, safety, and friends. Continue Reading

River Ties: How To Make A River Documentary

July 16, 2013 by Jason Clements

This is Part 2 of the 3-part interview with the artists behind the river documentary called River Ties. In Part 1, we met the minds behind the project. In this installment, Matt and Guy discuss what it takes to make a documentary; the logistics behind the adventure; and why the project is on Indiegogo.

HCRB: Where is the Green River?

Guy: It runs mostly in Wyoming and Utah with a small loop into Colorado near Dinosaur National Park. It dumps into the Colorado river in Canyonlands in southeastern Utah.

HCRB: What was the motivation for creating River Ties?

Guy: We are friends with this group and I’ve never introduced anyone to them that hasn’t liked them. I think we both wanted to do a film project at the time and the opportunity of the trip last fall and a great subject emerged.

Matt: I came in a little more removed from the group, but had met a few of them on a ski trip and was instantly impressed by the level of respect between them. All I knew after that trip was “Hmmm…how can I get invited on their next one?” These people are honest and highly entertaining.

HCRB: How easy are the logistics for a big River Adventure?

Matt: Complicated.

Guy: There is a ton of gear, required and otherwise, that the group has to have, not to mention permits. Fortunately there is very little of it we have to do but it requires lots of lists, spreadsheets and coordination.

HCRB: How are you embracing “Leave No Trace” for the River Ties Project? Continue Reading