Enchiridion V8 / V9 is the hardest established problem by a female in the state of Arkansas and has yet to be repeated.
So, what does it take to climb your hardest? What does it take to climb a problem that has never been climbed before?
What do you think? Is it perseverance? Dedication? Strength? Long-term vision? Luck? Fortitude? Grit? What lessons can you take away from Amanda to apply to your project at the gym or the crag?
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Let’s enter into the mind of Amanda Smith and find out how she made the first ascent of Enchiridion V8 / V9 in Pilot’s Knob, Arkansas.
When you start dreaming the moves of your project, it’s time to send – Amanda Smith
Enchiridion was a big project!
Chad Watkins (Amanda’s husband) showed me the line this past winter and it seemed impossible. I’ve been looking at it for two years but never thought it would go. He worked it a couple of years ago and had some complicated beta just to climb the first five feet of it.
The project wall is tall and steep. My first few sessions were improbable. I could barely get off the ground. A key hold broke and totally changed the original beta and made it seem impossible.
The next few sessions went a little better, I could link the first two to three moves, but I never thought it would be “my line”. I left the line alone for a few months and worked on other things.
At some point this Spring, my husband and I decided to work it again. The key hold that broke revealed some intense hard beta. In the video, it’s the low helicopter swing that I do. After that swing, you have to deadpoint some two-finger pockets to move to a thin crimp. That move alone took me at least five sessions.
All at once, the linkups were happening for me. The next key beta was moving from the pockets and crimps to another high crimp. For that move, I end up heel hooking right next to my hip I believe. It’s a weird move; I’m surprised it worked.
At that point, we started bringing a rope and top-roping it. It seemed like a better idea than dragging in ten pads for each session plus it helped my mental game. With the rope on, I cleaned it, and figured out the upper sequence quickly.
The holds up high are thin but at that point it is more about your endurance than anything. If you start thinking about the fall, you’re going to fall because it requires so much concentration to stay on.
That month, the linkups started happening for me. I was getting much further than I anticipated and realized that the send was going to happen soon! We did one more top-rope session and I had linked everything, from sit to near-finish. I actually missed the final move on top-rope but didn’t tell Chad at the time. I just wanted to send and I knew I could do it next go.
When you start dreaming the moves of your project, it’s time to send.
I started to worry about the incoming bad weather or someone taking the line before I sent. I was getting ready to leave town to visit my parents in Virginia so I couldn’t leave the project open. We borrowed pads from everyone we knew. It was supposed to rain the next day so it had to go on that day.
I waited awhile at the base, dialed the moves in my mind, set up my camera to film, and sent it first go. You can’t see in the video but on one of the last few crimps, my hand is slipping off, I re-adjust and bear down for the next hold. Thankfully, it stuck. The rollover was easy from there…the first ascent of Enchiridion.
I had such euphoria topping out. I was so shaky afterwards from the adrenaline.
For Enchiridion, I didn’t do any in-home training specifically for the line. Chad and I focused on contact strength this past winter with tabata timers and such and I think it really helped my climbing. I’m able to relax on holds where before I had a lot of trouble.
I would recommend hangboard training and focusing on core strength for anyone wanting to get stronger.
Find more details about Pilot’s Knob from Mountain Project. Here’s how to get there:
From Harrison: take hwy 392 west. As you enter the small town of Batavia, Pilots Knob rd will be on your left. Drive slow down this road. the road will steepen and turn left, and when the road makes a hard right, that corner is the parking for the bouldering area on the lower section. continue driving the road until it dead-ends at the red gate; park to the right of the gate. After climbing over the gate hike up the field trending left to go around to the sport climbing area. There are a few boulder problems on top.
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