Bouldering

Rock Climbing in Kansas: Mushroom Rock State Park

September 16, 2015 by Jason Clements

If you are a rock climber or boulderer driving west on I-70, on your way to Colorado, you should plan to stop at Mushroom Rock State Park. Mushroom Rock State Park has the most unique boulders in the state of Kansas.

The rock formations are other-worldly. There is a true sense of awe here. How did these sandstone mushrooms appear In the middle of a Kansas prairie?

Take time to think quietly here. Take the time to relax.

Planning Your Stop At Mushroom Rock State Park From Kansas City

Climbing Chalk Review: Friction Labs Climbing Chalk

December 4, 2014 by Jason Clements

CLIMBING CHALK REVIEW; FRICTION LAB CLIMBING CHALK

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Purchase some of the World’s best climbing chalk at The Friction Labs Store.

Pros:

Friction Labs Climbing Chalk (F.L.) does climbing chalk the right way.
F.L. is significantly better than the “Wal-Mart-style” cheap chalks; and a solid degree better than, what I believe was the premiere brand of chalk, Bison.
F.L. is stickier and lasts longer on your hands for multiple burns.
F.L. has the science to back up their claims.
F.L. has a robust website that will answer all of your questions.
F.L. has 3 different blends to choose from: Bam Bam, Gorilla Grip, Unicorn Dust
F.L. has a very convenient auto-ship service.
F.L. creates a relationship with their fans.
F.L. can be used in your regular workouts with dumbbells, kettlebells, etc.

Cons:

You will pay more for a quality product.
I don’t like the wording of their guarantee. But I am certain that if you don’t act like a complete grocery bag, and you happen to be the 1 out of 1,000,000 people who may not like the F.L. chalk, their customer service will probably treat you right.

A Little Background on My Opinion – I Have Been a Bison Chalk Snob

I am a chalk snob in the same way that I am a beer snob. Bud Light just doesn’t taste like anything I want to put in my mouth. Gross! Give me a Boulevard Tank 7 and I can taste the fruit tanginess and full flavor and the long crisp finish. Pair that Tank 7 with any pizza and I am in Heaven.

Yeah, I’ve tried all the Wal-Mart-style cheap chalks like Metolius, Evolv, Black Diamond. Those are just entry-level chalks. Plain and simple. You can burn through a brick or container of that cheap stuff in a busy weekend. All of those are gritty and you just about have to chalk up after every single move. You really get what you pay for with those brands…not much besides the basic idea of chalk to keep your hands dry. Continue Reading

Weight Loss For Rock Climbers: My Climbing Went From V2 to V6!

July 10, 2014 by Jason Clements

My climbing abilities jumped: I had never sent a V3. Afterwards, I was able to send a few V5’s and V6’s. This is my story of how I lost 22 lbs. of fat, gained 7 lbs. of muscle and improved my climbing from V2 to V6.

The usual disclaimer: This is just my experience and my opinion. This is what works for me. If you have a different experience, feel free to share in the comments. I am not a doctor, nor do I play one on the interwebs. However, I embrace the concept of self-experimentation and the value of N=1 data for personal improvement.

MY PERSONAL THEORY FOR IMPROVING CLIMBING

Improvement in overall fitness should lead to improvements in climbing
Improvement (reduction) in Body Fat Percentage should lead to improvements in climbing

My Experiment

All I wanted to do was lose some belly fat (maybe even lose weight fast) and climb a little stronger. I didn’t have an end weight in mind and I really didn’t know if I would lose weight or add muscle or both. Mentally, I was prepared to just accept the data. And I had no idea how this would affect my climbing. I was hopeful that I would get stronger; I just didn’t know how much stronger. Continue Reading

Meet David Tindle: Owner Of The Strength Lab In Lawrence, Kansas

January 8, 2014 by Jason Clements

HCRB: Ok, David, what makes the Strength Lab Bouldering Gym so special?

David: I feel two key factors are at the heart of every great climbing gym. The first factor is a friendly atmosphere. I love the idea of not even having to call a climbing partner to meet up ahead of time, and just knowing when you walk into The Lab, there will be plenty of friends to climb with. As the owner, I make a point to introduce everyone to each other so that it provides a place to make new friends in a healthy environment.

The second factor that makes a gym great is the setting. You need fresh new problems going up every week and a diverse style of setting. Every problem in The Lab has a 6 week expiration date from the time it goes up. This gives climbers specific goals and keeps them progressing forward. We have 8 setters and they are a wide range of abilities as well as years of experience setting. We have so much fun setting together and busting each others beta. A few times a month we get together for the Midnight Sessions. This is where I invite all the setters out so we can have a special night of setting projects for each other and hanging out. Something else I like to do is allow the setters to pick out what holds they want to order. This gives them a real sense of ownership and allows them to feel inspired about what direction the gym is headed.

HCRB: Why do you think the vibe at the Lab is so welcoming?

David: I love climbing. Eight years ago a friend told me a quote that has since shaped my life…”If you do something you love, you’ll never work a day in your life.” From that moment on, I tried to seek out what career would make me feel that way. I can honestly say everyday I go to work I am happy and excited about it. I think that might be what helped to start the good vibes. I have been incredibly lucky to meet so many cool people through the sport.

HCRB: Why does CrossFit Lawrence fit so well with the Strength Lab?

David: CrossFit is about teaching people how to be better athletes. So you have this population of people who already have a good foundation of strength, balance, and mobility. They naturally pick up on climbing at a relatively quick rate. Also the psych that climbers feel towards climbing is not unfamiliar to the psych that CrossFitters feel towards W.O.D.ing out. (W.O.D. – means workout of day.)

HCRB: What is this “mob” thing you always talk about? Continue Reading

Chris Deulen: Strong Business Owner, Strong Dad, Strong Climber

December 9, 2013 by Jason Clements

I admire Chris Deulen. He is warm and approachable. He is a fantastic dad. He runs his own business in a very eco-smart manner. And, he is one bad-ass climber. I think he may be one of the strongest climbers in the area. Chris takes time out of his very busy schedule, to answer some HCR: Beta questions. Ladies and Gentlemen: Chris Deulen…

HCRB: How long have you been climbing?

Chris: 12+years

HCRB: What are three things that every new climber should know about…

Chris:

Bouldering… 1. You can always climb harder than you think. 2. Not getting injured is a fine line to walk; educate yourself! 3. Visualize, visualize, visualize.
Lead climbing… 1. Triple check your set-ups. 2. Travel as much as you can. 3. Go Al-Muerte often (and don’t be afraid to scream!).
Climbing etiquette… 1. Learn what spray means. 2. Leave no trace. 3. Treat all people with respect and empathy.
Safety… 1.The longer you climb, the more serious you realize it is. 2. I’ve seen a mom hit the deck on her heals being belayed by her son. I’ve broken my ankle from improper pad placement, sprained the same ankle from running down a trail. Having a greater state of awareness will help you to live longer, and healthier. 3. In a hairy situation: breathe deeply, assess your options, learn to discern good fear from bad fear, then move!

HCRB: What one exercise should every new climber do? Continue Reading

Horseshoe Canyan Ranch And Fountain Red: 16 Boulder Problems In 16 Minutes

December 9, 2013 by Jason Clements

If you are on the cusp of moving from beginner boulderer up to the next level, you will enjoy this video by Adam Johnson. You’ll see 16 problems in 16 minutes. Adam climbs many of the classic V3, V4, and V5 problems at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and Fountain Red – two of my favorite bouldering destinations. You’ll also see a handful V6, V7 and V8 problems that should be on your tick list.

The only downside of the flick is some nsfw language on one of the songs. And the only criticism I have of the flick is the camera angle on The Crescent. The Crescent has some of the coolest body positioning for a classic V3 problem that Adam does not quite capture in the camera angle that he chose.

Enjoy 16 minutes of awesomeness!

Safe climbing to you!

Single Digit Boulders in Arkansas from adam johnson on Vimeo.