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Everything You Need To Know For Bouldering In Tucson Arizona

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meet-cory-hansonDeveloper, route-setter, graffiti-remover…and if he doesn’t have the answer to your rock climbing question, he will know someone who does.  Ladies and Gentlemen, Cory Hanson guides you with everything you need to know for bouldering in Tucson Arizona.

Cory Hanson and Old Pueblo BoulderingGive the beta for someone coming to climb in Tucson for a week?

If you are looking to boulder just check out Old Pueblo Bouldering.  The online guidebook has thousands of problems and you can search for specific grades by elevation range, quality ratings, and danger ratings.

Tucson bouldering lends itself to projecting as opposed to long day sessions.  This is partly due to the taxing nature of the rock on your skin.  This is also partly due to the lack of large areas with many climbs at any given grade.

If you are looking to session the best place to look is to Wilderness of Rocks, the deeper the better.  Unfortunately, the hike and the ponderosa pine forest make it hard for those who aren’t familiar with the territory.  OPB is looking to make finding your way around out there easier in the future.

Rose Canyon Lake including the entrance boulders is all right for lower grade ranges.

Lizard rock and the Matterhorn boulders are adjacent to each other and can be used together to make a little circuit.

The key to enjoying the bouldering in Tucson is to enjoy trying hard on whatever you happen to be by until you gather an understanding of what is out there to work on and when it is appropriate to work on it.

If you are looking for rope I recommend Eric Fazio-Rhicard’s Squeezing the Lemmon 3rd edition.  It’ll get you where you need to be.

In either case, be sure to swing into one of the gyms and ask some locals what is in season in the grade range and style you are looking for.  We tend to be an approachable bunch!

Best time of year to climb in and around Tucson?

[Read more…] about Everything You Need To Know For Bouldering In Tucson Arizona

Meet Cory Hanson: Old Pueblo Bouldering and The Bloc in Tucson Arizona

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Cory Hanson at The Bloc Climbing and FitnessCory Hanson is the head routesetter at The Block Climbing + Fitness in Tucson, Arizona.  He is also the driving force behind Old Pueblo Bouldering and all of the development in and around Tuscon.

And if you are looking to travel and climb in the Tucson area, check out the Ultimate Guide To Rock Climbing In Tucson Arizona by Cory Hanson (coming soon).

Ladies and Gentlemen, please meet Cory Hanson:

HCRB: The last good book I ready was:

Cory: The Pale King by David Foster Wallace

HCRB: My go-to brand of climbing shoe is:

Cory: Recently I’ve been digging the Scarpa Furia

HCRB: My go-to brand of approach shoe is:

Cory: Chaco Flip Flops …or if I have to I’ll put on Scarpa Zen ProsCory Hanson on a V3 in the Catalinas

HCRB: My go-to brand of climbing chalk:

Cory: Metolius Bloc Chalk

HCRB: If I had to eat the same breakfast, every day, for a year, it would be:

Cory: Eggs, shallots, leeks, and avocado…at least that’s what’s cooking in the AM recently

HCRB: The music I listen to most right now is:

Cory: Podcasts

HCRB: The last thing I googled was:

Cory: The address of a Makita service repair center in Tucson

HCRB: If I am not climbing, I am:

Cory: Most likely coaching, setting, exploring the mountains, working on my house, or walking my dog.  I need a social life.

HCRB: Coffee or Beer?  Ideal location to enjoy it?

Cory: Is there a cruel place in this world that would make you choose? Both are best consumed in ponderosa pine woods.

_____________________

HCRB: What is Old Pueblo Bouldering? [Read more…] about Meet Cory Hanson: Old Pueblo Bouldering and The Bloc in Tucson Arizona

How To Repair A Cracked ProHands Hand Exerciser

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Repair A Cracked Prohands hand exerciser

How To Repair A Cracked ProHands Hand Exerciser

The best warm up tool I have is the Prohands hand exerciser by Grip Master.  Almost every boulderer I know has one of these or something similar to it.

This is the second Prohands Pro (heavy tension) that has cracked on me.  Both of mine have cracked in the same manner, so I decided to take to look to find out if it was repairable.

The Answer Is Yes

Yes, the Prohands hand exerciser was repairable; and it was worth the time to fix it.

As you watch the video, you will notice that I call it “busted and unrepairable” around the 5:15 mark.  However, while I was gathering up everything to clean up and throw it away, I made a DISCOVERY (at 5:35 of the video) that lead me to fixing it.  Here is the video; and the Step By Step is below.

Step By Step Repair A Cracked ProHands Hand Exerciser

[Read more…] about How To Repair A Cracked ProHands Hand Exerciser

Climbing Holds, Routesetting, Home Walls: Meet Jeremy Dowsett

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climbingholdreview.blogspot.ca by Jeremy DowsettJeremy Dowsett writes for Climbing Hold Review and runs the YouTube channel called Jeremy Dowsett or NTMB.  (You’ll get to know what NTMB stands for in a few moments…)  He has also repped for a number of world-class hold companies; and currently reps for Project Holds and Atomik Climbing Holds.

Pour yourself a big hot coffee or a tall cold beer as this is a killer interview and well worth the read time.  We not only cover Climbing Holds, Routesetting, Home Walls; but also:

  • World travel for climbers
  • Tricks to summon up super powers for that special send
  • Tips for connecting with Jeremy or other climbing hold companies for business purposes – you know, purchase climbing holds.
  • Mistakes to avoid when building a home wall
  • Tips for rock climbing gym owners and managers
  • The importance of routesetting in a climbing gym
  • Tips to move from beginner routesetter to excellent routesetter
  • Specific beta for rock climbing in Europe

Climbing Holds, Routesetting, Home Walls Jeremy DowsettLadies and Gentlemen, please meet Jeremy Dowsett.

HCRB:  What is the last good book you read?

Jeremy:  “Anthony Bourdain: Kitchen Confidential” as I like to cook and I just binged watched Anthony’s show: The Layover.

On the climbing front I just re-read “Fall of the Phantom Lord: Climbing and the Face of Fear” which is a great read by Andrew Todhunter.  It is about the risks of climbing and about one of my favorite climbers, Dan Osman.

HCRB:  Favorite way to relax?

Jeremy:  Cooking and hanging with my girlfriend and my “wolfpack” (I have three cats)

HCRB:  What is the last thing you googled?

Jeremy:  Camera equipment…again.

HCRB:  Why is your nickname Noodles?

Climbing Hold Review LogoJeremy:  That’s an interesting one; most people don’t realize that I’m actually a Senior Level Designer by trade.  Basically, I make video games as my 9-5 and Climbing Hold Review was just a side project that I started many years ago. I work for Ubisoft in Montreal and have made a bunch of games that some people might recognize… Assassins Creed / Splinter Cell: Chaos Theory / Far Cry: Primal to name a few. [Read more…] about Climbing Holds, Routesetting, Home Walls: Meet Jeremy Dowsett

Updates and News from Organic Climbing: The Best Bouldering Pads. Period.

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Organic Climbing The Best Bouldering Pads PeriodWe are in the thick of the fall season and Josh Helke, the owner of Organic Climbing, has some updates, news, and tips for us. [Connect with Organic Climbing on Facebook.]

The Quick Read:

  • The New Organic Roll Down Pack – Made-in-the-USA quality back pack
  • The New Organic Load Flap – For boulderers who need many pads
  • The New Organic Blubber Pad – Extra padding for big landing zones
  • Organic Climbing Important Warranty Information – Josh makes quality gear
  • 3 Tips for new boulderers from Josh Helke – Enjoy your climbing
  • Shout OUT to Spencer and Vikki at the Conscious Climber Project

HCRB:  What’s new at Organic Climbing:

Josh:  The Organic Roll Down Pack. A super burly, well designed, and fairly priced roll down style backpack for all around use and abuse.

[Click here to view the Organic Roll Down Pack pricing at the Organic Climbing website.]

HCRB:  Who should buy the Organic Roll Down Pack?

Josh:  The Organic Roll Down Pack is a 4-season pack, perfect for climbers and students.

HCRB:  What else is new, Josh? [Read more…] about Updates and News from Organic Climbing: The Best Bouldering Pads. Period.

Into The Mind Of Amanda Smith and Her First Ascent of Enchiridion V8/V9

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Enchiridion V8 / V9 is the hardest established problem by a female in the state of Arkansas and has yet to be repeated.

So, what does it take to climb your hardest?  What does it take to climb a problem that has never been climbed before?

What do you think?  Is it perseverance?  Dedication?  Strength?  Long-term vision?  Luck?  Fortitude?  Grit?  What lessons can you take away from Amanda to apply to your project at the gym or the crag?

What lessons can you take away from Amanda that you can apply to something outside of climbing?

Let’s enter into the mind of Amanda Smith and find out how she made the first ascent of Enchiridion V8 / V9 in Pilot’s Knob, Arkansas.

When you start dreaming the moves of your project, it’s time to send – Amanda Smith

Enchiridion was a big project!

Chad Watkins (Amanda’s husband) showed me the line this past winter and it seemed impossible. I’ve been looking at it for two years but never thought it would go. He worked it a couple of years ago and had some complicated beta just to climb the first five feet of it. [Read more…] about Into The Mind Of Amanda Smith and Her First Ascent of Enchiridion V8/V9