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Jason Clements

Music and Movie Fridays: Dave Graham FA The Ice Knife V15

February 1, 2013 by Jason Clements

Nathan Bancroft at Achromatic.tv put this beautiful vid of Dave Graham’s first ascent of the Ice Knive V15.  The cinematography is outstanding; but the climbing doesn’t start until 5:07.  It was worth the wait.  This is a superb vid that captures Dave’s frustrations.  So, look out if you are watching with younglings that are sensitive to all-out-effort language of a boulderer.

If you haven’t seen Dave’s interview about using wizardry to send, you can see it here.  As Dave fights through multiple tries, he eventually had to rely upon his “wizard sh*t” to get the FA of this beautiful V15.

Nice work, Dave.  Nice work, Nathan.

Scarred for Life – The Ice Knife from achromatic.tv on Vimeo.

Filed Under: Movies

Repair my Smartwool Socks, Icebreaker Socks, or any Merino Wool Socks

January 14, 2013 by Jason Clements

The beginnings of a hole in my SmartwoolsYou own the world’s best socks and they are beginning to show some wear and tear.  Wouldn’t it be nice if your favorite Smartwool socks lasted just a little bit longer?

In this picture article, I hope to show you how you can salvage your socks and make them last a bit longer.  Smartwool and Icebreaker are excellent clothing companies and you pay a premium for THAT excellent quality.  Over time, your know your socks or other merino gear will show some Regular Cotton Threadwear, especially if you are outside on a frequent basis.  So, for a moment, let’s refer to the old saying that our grandmothers taught us: “a stitch in time saves nine.”  Repairing your merino clothing now, or right when you spot a hole or a spot that is wearing thin, will save you a bigger repair and will extend the life of your favorite and probably expensive merino gear.

In the first picture above, you can see where my toe is beginning to wear a thin spot in my Smartwool socks.  I choose some black cotton multipurpose thread(1) and a just a regular sewing needle I took from my daughter’s sewing basket.Inserting Light Bulb into Smartwool Sock

Next, I found an old light bulb and inserted it into the Smartwool sock.  The bulb makes the sewing just a little bit easier.  I did turn the sock inside-out for the repair process.  I’ve heard that you can make sock repair on either the inside or outside.  You decide.

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Filed Under: Gear Repair and Maintainance, Merino Repair Tagged With: "sock repair", Icebreaker, Merino, Repair, Smartwool, Wool

Newbie Rock Climber: What Climbing Gear Should I Buy First

February 1, 2012 by Jason Clements

What Climbing Gear Should I Buy First

What climbing gear should you buy first?  source url analy essay list of tip to provide teachers to help middle school student to stay organized with adhd https://themauimiracle.org/bonus/nexium-levitra-prescription-stores-denavir/64/ what are the essay proms for the common application viagra para hombres sin efectos secundarios follow url do my geology essay red viagra kullanm https://lawdegree.com/questions/how-do-i-change-time-zone-on-my-ipad/46/ source https://gretchenwegner.com/stories/how-does-breathing-into-a-paper-bag-help-anxiety/96/ viagra in usa deiiver i 2days prix cialis espagne do catholics support viagra https://willcoxwinecountry.org/linkedin/jokes-about-thesis-writing/47/ follow site light in august essays essay electronic devices write an essay topic sentence levitra benedits accelerated nursing essay https://vgdev.gtorg.gatech.edu/buyonline/buy-viagra-without-a-prescription-overnight/1/ good bad communication essay coursework resources ict https://gretchenwegner.com/stories/dissertation-writing-help-online/96/ follow creative writing courses surrey https://astro.umbc.edu/blog/green-generic-viagra/199/ https://albionfoundation.org/perpill/what-happens-if-a-girl-takes-a-mans-viagra/63/ https://indiana.internexus.edu/courses/the-power-of-language-practice-essay/52/ which is most effective viagra or cialis Suggestion:  For each piece of gear, go to your local outdoor shop or gym and try on as many different brands and sizes.  Once you know your size and what brand works best for you, you will be able to shop around to get the best price.

Here is my recommendation, in order, of what your first 3 purchases should be.

1.  Helmet
2.  Shoes and Harness
3.  Belay Device and Carabiner

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Filed Under: Gear

How to Choose the Correct Belay Device for Beginners

January 30, 2012 by Jason Clements

If you are new to climbing, you probably want to know what the difference is between the Gri Gri v.1, Gri Gri v.2, and the ATC-style belay device.

The first point you should consider is that you should master your device. The second point you should consider is that no matter what device you use, never take your hand off of the break side of the rope.  There is no substitute for YOU knowing how YOUR device works.  And, how do you master your device? Practice.  Practice Makes Perfect. And Perfect Practice makes Perfect.  You must understand and respect that on the other end of the rope is a person who has put their trust in you.  You are responsible for the well-being, health, and life of that other person.  Accept that fact and you are on your way to being a very safe and respected belayer.

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Filed Under: Beginners, Gear

The Beauty of South Africa’s Rocklands: Tomorrow I Will Be Gone

December 2, 2011 by Jason Clements

Outcrop Films is giving the climbing community a magnificent bouldering flick called Tomorrow I Will Be Gone.  Showcased are top climbers from Britain: Micky Page, David Mason, Mina Leslie-Wujastyk, Lucinda Whittaker, Sam Whittaker, Scott Gibson, Grant Bateman, Andy Banks, Richard Sharpe and Nick Brown.

Shot in HD and available for FREE throughout the interwebs, to say that Tomorrow I Will Be Gone is “awesome” or “sick” is an understatement. This flick is pure climbing in a area so beautiful that God must visit when he needs to get his Climb On! Outcrop Films states, “No interviews, no nonsense, just climbing.”

We’ve seen the Rocklands in Big Up Productions’ Progression .  I find it difficult to watch with my kids because of the many F-bombs. (When Daniel Woods or Matt Segal are climbing, I just hit the mute button to be safe with the kids around.)

We are nearly spared any kid-friendly warning in the language department except for one slip up.  At the very, very end of the film, at the end of the credits, there is one more climb and the very last statement from the very last climber lands us the films only language warning.  So if you are with your kids, just stop watching as the credits roll and you’ be safe.

Tomorrow I Will Be Gone is a solid 5 out of 5.  The cinematography is 5/5.  The climbing is 5/5.  Even the artsy transitions are a perfect 5/5.  And the flick is FREE coming in at just under 45 minutes play time.  Thank you, Outcrop Films!

Filed Under: Movies

Free Music and Movie Friday: Nina Caprez Climbs in TUZGLE

November 26, 2011 by Jason Clements

Tuzgle is the best short film that I have ever purchased.  Running at just over 20 minutes, this climbing-full flick just doesn’t stop. It is French with English subs; but that does not take away from the flow of the story or the absolutely beautiful cinematography. What a breathtaking landscape! I thought I wanted to go to Tuzgle, Argentina until I looked at the location on Google Maps.  

I’ll give Tuzgle 4 out of 5 stars.  I wonder why the producers only made it 21 minutes long.  It looks like there was enough rock in Tuzgle to make a feature film.  And with 22 year-old rock climbing sensation, Nina Caprez as the star of the show, where could the producer go wrong? 

My only beef with the film is that the language in not kid-friendly.  There is one f-bomb and a couple of sh##’s so look out on the subtitles.  You may be okay if you don’t speak French and your kids aren’t super fast readers.

Baraka Films produced Tuzgle and it is worth owning.  Even if you don’t read French, you can purchase Tuzgle at their website www.barakafilms.com.  It is only 5 euros (approx. $6.70 as of 11.30.2011).

Here’s the trailer:

 

Filed Under: Climbing, Movies

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