I admire Chris Deulen. He is warm and approachable. He is a fantastic dad. He runs his own business in a very eco-smart manner. And, he is one bad-ass climber. I think he may be one of the strongest climbers in the area. Chris takes time out of his very busy schedule, to answer some HCR: Beta questions. Ladies and Gentlemen: Chris Deulen…
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Chris: 12+years
HCRB: What are three things that every new climber should know about…
Chris:
- Bouldering… 1. You can always climb harder than you think. 2. Not getting injured is a fine line to walk; educate yourself! 3. Visualize, visualize, visualize.
- Lead climbing… 1. Triple check your set-ups. 2. Travel as much as you can. 3. Go Al-Muerte often (and don’t be afraid to scream!).
- Climbing etiquette… 1. Learn what spray means. 2. Leave no trace. 3. Treat all people with respect and empathy.
- Safety… 1.The longer you climb, the more serious you realize it is. 2. I’ve seen a mom hit the deck on her heals being belayed by her son. I’ve broken my ankle from improper pad placement, sprained the same ankle from running down a trail. Having a greater state of awareness will help you to live longer, and healthier. 3. In a hairy situation: breathe deeply, assess your options, learn to discern good fear from bad fear, then move!
HCRB: What one exercise should every new climber do?
Chris: Oh, it’s hard to pick just one! I’d recommend the Metolius Gripsaver, as well as the Gripmaster Pro Hand Strengthener. And different types of push ups!
HCRB: What book should every new climber read.
Chris: 9 out of 10 Climbers Make The Same Mistakes by Dave Mcleod.
HCRB: Do you have a favorite chalk?
Chris: Frank Endo Gymnast chalk. I wish they sold it at more places; I can usually only find it at REI, and even then rarely. It’s cheap, and comes in blocks. I like that I have to crush it to break it down as the chalk sticks to my hands better.
HCRB: What shoes do you enjoy and why?
Chris: I recently tried the black 5.10 Teams, which I was really psyched to get. However, the heel cup was unreasonably large for my foot, and I had to sell them. I now have purchased, for the first time ever (!) a pair of La Sportiva Solutions. I’ve always wanted to try them, but wanted to make sure they weren’t just a fad shoe. Well, 6 years after their introduction they are still being worn by some of the top athletes in the world. I also have some Miura VS’s that fit my foot perfectly, but aren’t designed for toe-hooking, a serious flaw in my opinion. The Solutions fit similarly, but are quite clearly a superior shoe, and possibly one of the best shoes ever designed, if not the best. I’m also partial to Scarpas, but I’m a dad and am broke!
HCRB: Where did you start climbing? Gym? Outside?
Chris: In college my friend took me to a small local rec center that had a short lead wall and a bouldering wall. It was love at first touch and I began going regularly–though I didn’t get outside for about a month. My first experience outside was bouldering at Horsestooth Resevoir in Ft. Collins, CO. The movement I saw some other climbers doing astounded me. I was greatly inspired and quickly became obsessed.
HCRB: I think every climber I know experienced that “nature is so beautiful” moment on their first climbing trip. Do you remember your first climbing trip?
Chris: Being an outdoor cross country runner from Washington state, I was pretty into nature already, and grew up camping, hiking, playing outside, etc. But my first climbing trip-like experience was in college, visiting my dad in So Cal. My buddy and some friends and I stopped at the gear store outside of J-Tree and bought a rope. I had some quick draws (maybe 6 or 8???). We had no clue what we were doing though I thought the opposite at the time. We didn’t have a guide book, had no idea what anything was, and I just started leading these routes that probably were supposed to be mixed! Finally I got on a route I had no business being on and got into some (what I felt was) hairy climbing. I took 5′ whip after 5′ whip on my friend. These guys happened to come along around the corner, saw that we were fresher than daisies off the flower cart, and helped us get our gear down after I was super pumped.
HCRB: What did you do before? High school, college, club sports of any kind?
Chris: I played with a premier soccer club for 6 years as well as ran cross country in high school. Running eventually became my main sport, mostly because I was better at it than anything else, even soccer. I ran 4:17 in the mile, 9:12 in the 2-mile, 15:34 in the 5k, etc. Scholarships helped pay for college, and I also coached my 5th year. I realized years later after I switched to climbing, that I was doing all of it to find peace and presence in my life.
HCRB: Have you always been a fit or athletic guy?
Chris: Yes. We didn’t have cable growing up, and my mom would only let me play video games so long before she kicked me outside to play. It was bikes, trees, running, and mischief for my childhood, so sports were a good outlet. I was/am spatially intelligent and had physical talent. I’m grateful I wasn’t fat and spoiled, or only good at something like computers.
HCRB: How hard are you climbing right now?
Chris: Not very hard! Although I did just win 2 comps. I think I could probably pull down a V9 or V10 outside if I had a day or two. And maybe 13a if it was a short one! I’m only training once or twice a week. Good thing I have a strong foundation!
HCRB: What are a few of your recent favorite sends?
Chris: I haven’t been outside much this year given family and my business, but in a short trip to Colorado this past summer I was able to pull down Triple Threat and Unshackled (both soft V10s), the latter which I was really psyched on. I also had my first trip to Horseshoe Canyon Ranch in October, which I really enjoyed.
HCRB: Name a gym here around KC that you are enjoying right now and why.
Chris: I really like The Cave. There’s a growing group of guys/girls pushing each other there right now, and I’m starting to set problems. The owner is a fiery South African, but don’t let her scare you off. The training area is modernized with rings, systems wall, campus boards, peg board, rock rings, a Beast Maker hangboard, kettle bells, etc. It’s one of the few only-bouldering gyms I’ve ever been to. It’s also 12 stories under ground!!
HCRB: What was going on in your diet or exercise when you saw your biggest jump in climbing abilities?
Chris: I guess I attribute my increases more to training, but while I’ve been sending hard (and just in general) I try to eat only local and/or organic whole foods (though we’re not inflexible about it); a lot of sprouted grains, legumes, beans and rice, nuts, home made sour dough bread, fermented foods, grass fed meat, raw milk, maple syrup, honey, etc. Basically we follow the Weston A. Price diet and lots of water, tea, good beer, and local whiskey!
HCRB: What kind of “diet” helps you perform your best.
Chris: See above. I usually just follow whatever I feel in the mood for, which I like to believe can reflect my body’s needs, if I listen to it.
HCRB: What do you feel works the best in your diet right now?
Chris: Eggs. We get these amazing eggs from local farms around here and the yolks are orange. It’s almost like a different food compared to other eggs, and is a huge part of my diet. That and raw cheese. Both have a lot of good cholesterol and fat, which I believe are paramount to a good diet for me.
HCRB: What do you snack on?
Chris: Nuts, and Builder’s Bars (processed, so not that good, but still organic and they have 20 gs of protein), and anything my kids don’t eat!
HCRB: You make your own _______. (sauerkraut, kombucha, bread, beer?) Why?
Chris: All of the above! We believe the key to good health and overall fitness starts with one’s “engine;” that is, our digestive system. If that is working well, then it will be able to deliver proper nutrients to the rest of your body. One of the main aspects of that is a thriving flora with good bacteria. When food is fermented, you’re letting the bacteria do a lot of the digesting and breaking down of the nutrients. It’s sort of like outsourcing your digestion! The more healthy bacteria in your gut, the more nutrients available for healing, recovery, and everyday demands.
HCRB: Are you currently embracing any health philosophies that you think others could benefit from?
Chris: I believe everyone’s body is different; there’s no one magic bullet diet or training method. When we begin listening to our bodies and using our intuition, we take control of our own fitness and health to can achieve greater success than by listening solely to other “authorities.” No one knows your body like your self! The other thing is discovering how to give your mind a break and just be in the present moment. Your mental health can have a greater influence than diet or training at times, and learning how to use and rest your mind is an important aspect of that. I recommend Eckhart Tolle’s book, The Power of Now, as well as Arno Ilgner’s The Rock Warrior’s Way.
HCRB: How does climbing help you in your business?
Chris: I feel I’m safer given my experience with heights and high risk situations; I can assess risk and visualize solutions to a much greater extent than if I didn’t have climbing.
[Jason’s notes: Chris Deulen’s company is Green Team Window Cleaning. Chris offers some quick tips that any homeowner can use in between professional window cleanings in the article below.]
Al-Muerte: Going absolutely as hard as you can on a move/sequence; usually involves screaming of some kind.
Spray: Unsolicited beta; not always unappreciated, but usually inappropriate. It can take a lot of self-awareness/control to refrain from doing this, but I believe to do so creates a better environment for everyone. Climbing at its core is problem solving. What fun is it if someone solves your problem for you, especially if you didn’t ask them to? (I am quite guilty of this at times; please reprimand me if you see me doing it!)
Additonal Reading
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