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10 Route Setting Tips for the New Route Setter or Add Psyche To Your Creativity

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When You Need To Add Some Psyche To Your Setting Creativity

  • Sit quietly and imagine your last send outside. How did that feel?
  • Look at pictures or vids of yourself sending. Can you reproduce that?
  • Watch videos of the pros climbing outside
  • Watch videos of indoor competitions
  • Watch videos of other gym setters
  • Join Routesetter Anon in Facebook
  • Get out your guidebook and look at pictures of problems you want to climb next
  • On rope? Think about crux sections of ascending routes you’ve sent recently
  • Set out some holds on the ground. Tool around with them on the ground.
  • Link up 2 easy problems that are close to each other

10 Route Setting Tips for the New Route Setter

Sit quietly and image your last send outside. How did that feel?

Many climbers I know, practice some sort of meditation or mindfulness.  The actual step-by-step process of meditation or mindfulness is outside of the scope of this article.

However, you probably can already just chill out in front of a wall in your gym and see the space and envision what might be possible to create right there.  When there are many routes and problems up, can you ‘see’ the empty space where another problem can go?

When the wall is completely blank, I allow a pile of holds to talk to me.  (See Tip #9)

Look at pictures or vids of yourself sending. Can you reproduce that?

There is no reason why you can’t be a little selfish when setting.  Yes, you can set routes based upon what is fun for you.  Did you send a problem that took extra work and was super satisfying to finally send.  Hook your gym up with a simulator.

Watch videos of the pros climbing outside

My favorite place to see new vids from the pros is DPM Climbing.

DPM Climbing

Watch videos of indoor competitions

More and more comps are being live cast on the web.  Have you looked at Louder Than Eleven’s super slo mo vids.  You can analyze some very small movements and adjustments that these top climbers are making with their bodies.

Watch videos of other gym setters

My buddy sets at BLOC climbing+fitness+yoga in Tuscon, Arizona.  I subscribe to their channel because they set world class problems.

What other gyms have regular videos of their problems and routes?

Join Routesetters Anonymous on Facebook

Routesetters Anonymous on Facebook is a phenomenal resource for anything having to do with setting.  You can get inside info on new holds, tools, techniques and more.  If you are on Facebook and you are a setter, you should be a part of this community.

Get out your guidebook and look at pictures of problems you want to climb nextRoutesetting Ideas

What guidebook do you use most often?

What is that next level problem in your guidebook that you haven’t been on yet?  Can this picture and description motivate you to set a simulator or a trainer based on that problem?

On rope? Think about crux sections of ascending routes you’ve sent recently

So you enjoy ascending as much as you enjoy bouldering.  No problem.  [Pun intended.] Jump back into your memory and find those awesome crux moves.  Set that crux more as a boulder problem.  Or set a boulder problem as the beginning of your ascending route.  It works both ways.

Place holds on the ground. Tool around with them on the ground.

This is the technique I use when I am stuck.  I just look at the holds and listen to what they might say.

        • Slopers
        • Crimps
        • All the sharpest, hurtiest holds I can find
        • All the slimy, limestone-like old holds
        • Big shelfy pieces for an easy roof problem
        • All the blue holds
        • All the thin screw-in rails
        • …you get the idea

Link up 2 easy problems that are close to each other.

I am not a big fan of taping existing holds.  I am a creative, I will put up freshness on the wall.  But, hey, there are times when the creative psyche is low and I need to put up something new.  Why not look for two problems that are close to each other and link the bottom of one to the top of another…or vice versa?

Read about more tips Route Setting inside of HCRBeta’s Route Setting Category.

Jason at Olive Ridge Camp CO 85Jason Clements is the founder of and writer for HCRBeta, Hike Climb Relax:  How to…  He lives in Shawnee, Kansas and also runs the cell phone recycling company, Cells for Cells, which recycles cell phones to raise money for families battling cancer.  You can follow Jason on Facebook or on Twitter @jasonclements.