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David: I feel two key factors are at the heart of every great climbing gym. The first factor is a friendly atmosphere. I love the idea of not even having to call a climbing partner to meet up ahead of time, and just knowing when you walk into The Lab, there will be plenty of friends to climb with. As the owner, I make a point to introduce everyone to each other so that it provides a place to make new friends in a healthy environment.
The second factor that makes a gym great is the setting. You need fresh new problems going up every week and a diverse style of setting. Every problem in The Lab has a 6 week expiration date from the time it goes up. This gives climbers specific goals and keeps them progressing forward. We have 8 setters and they are a wide range of abilities as well as years of experience setting. We have so much fun setting together and busting each others beta. A few times a month we get together for the Midnight Sessions. This is where I invite all the setters out so we can have a special night of setting projects for each other and hanging out. Something else I like to do is allow the setters to pick out what holds they want to order. This gives them a real sense of ownership and allows them to feel inspired about what direction the gym is headed.
HCRB: Why do you think the vibe at the Lab is so welcoming?
David: I love climbing. Eight years ago a friend told me a quote that has since shaped my life…”If you do something you love, you’ll never work a day in your life.” From that moment on, I tried to seek out what career would make me feel that way. I can honestly say everyday I go to work I am happy and excited about it. I think that might be what helped to start the good vibes. I have been incredibly lucky to meet so many cool people through the sport.
HCRB: Why does CrossFit Lawrence fit so well with the Strength Lab?
David: CrossFit is about teaching people how to be better athletes. So you have this population of people who already have a good foundation of strength, balance, and mobility. They naturally pick up on climbing at a relatively quick rate. Also the psych that climbers feel towards climbing is not unfamiliar to the psych that CrossFitters feel towards W.O.D.ing out. (W.O.D. – means workout of day.)
HCRB: What is this “mob” thing you always talk about?
David: Mob is short for mobilize. It is a quest to understand the body — how it fits together. It is about learning how to gain full range of motion back in every joint in your body. Learning to mobilize properly will reduce your risk of injury and increase your climbing abilities. If you don’t have full range of motion in your shoulders, for instance, when you go to reach for a hold that is near the max of your reach potential, then you are essentially wasting energy fighting your own muscular limitations. The highest level of climbing is directly related to efficient use of energy on the wall. If you aren’t on a weekly mobility program yet, I recommend beginning one.
HCRB: Can you give some quick mod tips that anyone can do right now?
David: Absolutely! You need a golf ball for this movement. While standing up, place a golf ball under your right foot and set a timer for 2 minutes. Roll your foot around on the ball while trying to put as much weight as possible onto it. You will come across a spot that is more tender than any other spot. Once you locate that spot, make back and forth swipes in every direction in about 2 inch strips. After that spot doesn’t feel as sore find another one. Rinse and repeat until the 2 minutes is up then switch feet.
HCRB: What is the most popular mob tool that members use?
David: Lacrosse ball or softball. Both are so effective and versatile. A basic set of mobility tools is 3 golf balls, 3 lacrosse balls, and 3 softballs.
HCRB: What is the coolest story of a body healing/being fixed/overcoming an injury that you have seen at the Lab so far?
David: There was a lady that came to us complaining of back pain. She said it had been a chronic problem for 20 years. She claimed she had been to every doctor, chiropractor, and any other form of therapy she could think of, but was still in pain everyday. The problem wasn’t her back at all. She had an incredibly tight psoas, which once properly mobbed out, released the tension in her back. The woman was so grateful to be pain free.
HCRB: Having an onsite chiropractor and massage therapists is pretty amazing. Why does that work at the Lab?
David: Dr. Jeremy Arthur is a unique chiropractor — he is also a CrossFitter. I think athletes fear going to the doctor and then the doc telling them well…you need to take some time off…or maybe you shouldn’t do that activity. Jeremy understands this and looks for creative ways to get you back to doing what you love as soon as possible.
[Jason’s note: Dr. Jeremy offers a very special discount for chiropractic adjustments for climbers at The Lab. I’ve had a number of adjustments from him and always feel great afterwards. Dr. Jeremy’s best contact number is 620-433-4071. He’ll adjust you at The Lab!]
HCRB: Can Lab members use the Crossfit area?
David: They are allowed to use the mobility tools as long as they are respectful of the people in the CrossFit classes.
HCRB: Explain the “5 dot” system you use for rating your bouldering problems and how
it relates the the V-rating system that most of us are used to.
David:
1 dot = vb / v0
2 dot = v1 / v2 / v3
3 dot = v4 / v5 / v6
4 dot = v7 / v8 / v9
5 dot = v10 / v11 / v12
We don’t have a 6th dot….yet. Once I meet someone who climbs that hard and I understand how to set that range of moves then we will add the ever elusive 6th dot.
HCRB: What gets you psyched every morning?
David: The opportunity to help people become healthier and enjoy their lives more.
HCRB: Are you on a special diet?
David: Hahaha…well this question got me chuckling a little bit. I have been vegetarian for 8 years, but my diet goes far beyond that. I try to eat 90% organic and no GMO’s. I won’t go near a microwave. I only drink filtered water. I make a point to eat healthy bacteria (fermented foods) everyday. I scrutinize everything that goes into my body through a lens of what benefit does it provide and why am I putting it in my body in the first place? We really are what we eat. In today’s world, this is forgotten. I like asking the question “What is a twinkie?” The answer is, “I don’t know.” I can look at an apple and know that it grew from the earth and will eventually breakdown decay and return to the earth. Wisdom = Eat foods that expire.
HCRB: Did you put on 10lbs of raw, shredded muscle recently? How did you do it?
David: I did put on 10lbs of muscle in the last 6 months. This all started when I was having a debate with some fellow fitness coaches. The typical climbing mindset tells you that the heavier you are the more weight you have to carry up the wall. So I argued from this point and that it made more sense for me to stay at about 142 lbs to maximize my climbing ability. The other two argued from the point that if you were putting on true muscle then you would be more powerful on the wall. Well 6 months later I went from 142 – 152 lbs. I didn’t put on any body fat and I went from climbing v7 up to v9. I accomplished this by climbing in a weight vest, doing heavy weighted pull ups once a week, campus sessions, CWP workout once a week, and a resistance training program focused around Olympic lifts. At 28 years of age, I am quantifiably more athletic than I was at 18.
HCRB: What is your favorite area you have every climbed outside?
David: 3 way tie between Joe’s Valley, Hueco Tanks, and Horse Pens 40 
HCRB: What makes a climbing trip perfect for you?
David: Friends…climbing is such a social sport. I love sitting under a boulder problem philosophizing about life all day and enjoying nature. Everything in life is more fun with friends.
HCRB: What are three things that YOU must take on a climbing trip?
David: Shoes, Chalk, Crash Pad, Food, Sleeping bag…ok that’s 5 things, but that covers it all.
HCRB: What suggestions do you have for a new climber?
David: Learn how to warm up properly. Develop good pad placing techniques as well as spotting. Spend 5 minutes of every session solely focused on improving footwork. The very best climbers all have excellent footwork.
HCRB: What suggestions do you have for someone who wants to lose some weight?
David: It all begins with what you put into your body. Focus on nutrients rather than calories.
HCRB: What discounts do you have for the Lab?
David:
Tuesday 6 – 10 pm (student night 1/2 off) $5
Wednesday 6 – 10 pm (ladies night 1/2 off) $5
Month pass (20% student discount) $40
______________________________________
Gigantic thanks to David for taking the time to talk about The Lab!
*Photo Credits and a special thank you to Chan Kin Onn who is also one of the incredible setters at The Lab.
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[…] David Tindle – The Strength Lab (The Lab is closed; however, David’s interview is still an awesome read with a ton of insight and wisdom.) […]